You should buy cheese from somewhere like La Fromagerie.
If you ask for Cheddar, they will ask you which farm you prefer, and let you try each one.
If you ask for Brie, they will ask if you want a young, Spring Brie (cows in the fields, eating grass), or a mature Winter Brie (cows in the sheds, eating hay - produces a different character of cheese).
Once you've made a choice, they will need to know when you are planning to eat it, because different cheeses of the same type will reach perfection on different days.
And THAT ... is when you get fab cheese.
A restaurant should take the same sort of care, to give you an exquisite cheese experience.
If you suspect that the cheese is just an easy option for the restaurant, then you should never have it ... because it will be (as you say) naff and old fashioned.