The French have the bleus

by Nicola Shepherd

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SACRE BLEU! The Michelin Guides are being run by a Brit.

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It was only last December that all 38 three-Michelin starred chefs from all corners of Europe gathered at the Plaza Athenee hotel in Paris to enjoy a meal to celebrate 100 years of the little red books - bibles to every touring European gastronome.

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The chap with the unenviable task of cooking for this large assembly of culinary maestros was Alain Ducasse.

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The meal was a triumph - scallops, truffes noir, langoustine,�breast of thrush and coupe cafe-chocolat - all went down extremely well - and harmony reigned.

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But such�concord was short-lived. At the lunch the outgoing director�of the guides said a few words about the integrity of the little publishing phenomenon. He mentioned its utter impartiality, the importance of� its objectivity and open-mindedness, and the fact that it is for consumers and not food critics.

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However, he failed to mention one little thing to the assembled throng, although all were too painfully aware of it.

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He, a Frenchman,�was retiring as�director�of the guides, the incoming director this year would be, quelle horreur, a Brit.

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Yes, one Derek Brown, who hails from possibly the most unlikely British town to boast the seat�of European culinary approbation, Watford.

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Much shrugging of�shoulders and vigorous gesturing followed this appointment. How can 'un anglais',� who hails from the country with no apparent culinary tradition, possibly understand what is the ultimate in haute cuisine

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There are, apres tout, only two British chefs with three stars, Michel Roux and Gordon Ramsay.

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It is true that the guides are French right to the edges of their well-thumbed pages. They were�started at the turn of the last century, and in spite of being lionised by consumers and critics, they have been charcterised by quirkiness and idiosyncrasy.

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There is no set� number�of times that inspectors from the guide will visit a restaurant before pronouncing on it in print. They have never divulged the criteria, which govern the awarding of the all-important stars.

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Mr Brown's credentials for the job are actually quite good. He began his career in catering in some of this country's top hotels and has for a long time been a restaurant inspector for the guides.

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It is not a great time for�the French in matters culinary at the moment.

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They have seen their dominance of the quality wine market undermined by scandal. The middle market has been threatened by those cheeky litle Antipodean upstart wine produceers and now this.