Crosswords0 min ago
Paint Removal
http:// www.dec orating direct. co.uk/v iewprod /p/PALP A1/
Has anyone any experience of using this product or tips they could pass on?
Thanks in anticipation
Has anyone any experience of using this product or tips they could pass on?
Thanks in anticipation
Answers
So many times. A woman sat on the stairs (it's usually a woman- men can't be bothered), up to her neck in scrapers and Nitromors burns. I might be working there for weeks. She's always there. scraping. It's a laborious job. As far as I know, that product is as good as anything else. Works on the "poultice" principle. Paint it on ... wrap up in polythene ... wait for...
10:43 Tue 17th Jun 2014
depends on what you want to strip a few years back i stripped paint from window frames and used a heat gun with no problem . you just had to take extra care near the glass
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Very interested. Is it anything like Ronstrip which I can not seem to find anywhere these days ? I have a lot of paint stripping to do, multiple layers, and using normal stripper and scraping has indicated that method would be infeasibly slow. And I do not wish to risk burning the wood using as flame.
When I started your post wasn't there. Ok that is a possibility but I think I'd rather try chemicals like those that have worked well for me in the past than risk heat that despite best efforts, one can slip up on when trying to clear a particularly difficult spot. Best intentions and all that. Usually these sort of jobs find me using a variety of methods as I get fed up with one and swop to another.
OG with staircase details people often dismantle the lot and take it to a strip-shop, then reassemble (fine if parts are all same size!)
However I find the problem with commerical strippers is that some woods warp and move during the process. Typically with doors, the beading around panels can need a lot of TLC after a dip in the caustic tub. But commercial strippers are certainly quick for getting a result.
However I find the problem with commerical strippers is that some woods warp and move during the process. Typically with doors, the beading around panels can need a lot of TLC after a dip in the caustic tub. But commercial strippers are certainly quick for getting a result.
Not wishing to take over Ric's thread, was just interested in the product and any alternatives. But no way is my staircase easy to dismantle. It's the original and embedded into the walls, both sides. If one had to take it out one would put in new, and replaster everywhere, but this will be repaired, stripped, stained a mid oak and be the pride of the house (well maybe). So no one has used the product then ?
So many times. A woman sat on the stairs (it's usually a woman- men can't be bothered), up to her neck in scrapers and Nitromors burns.
I might be working there for weeks. She's always there. scraping. It's a laborious job. As far as I know, that product is as good as anything else. Works on the "poultice" principle. Paint it on ... wrap up in polythene ... wait for it to work ... then peel off.
Actually, it can be very effective on flat, uncomplicated surfaces. Mouldings are another story..... especially stair spindles. Maybe several applications, and a lot of work with pointy scrapers.
Ric, I'm sure your spindles are most elaborate and shapely. Although the process is similar to leg-waxing, it usually takes much longer.
I would certainly remove the spindles at least, and have them stripped. Actually I think I would take the handrails as well... even though, as in OG's case, some patching is needed afterwards.
Unless the staircase is almost free-standing, probably best to leave it in place. Paintstripper poultices work well on treads, risers, and strings (the side bits that everything fits into).
It's a labour of love, Ric.
I might be working there for weeks. She's always there. scraping. It's a laborious job. As far as I know, that product is as good as anything else. Works on the "poultice" principle. Paint it on ... wrap up in polythene ... wait for it to work ... then peel off.
Actually, it can be very effective on flat, uncomplicated surfaces. Mouldings are another story..... especially stair spindles. Maybe several applications, and a lot of work with pointy scrapers.
Ric, I'm sure your spindles are most elaborate and shapely. Although the process is similar to leg-waxing, it usually takes much longer.
I would certainly remove the spindles at least, and have them stripped. Actually I think I would take the handrails as well... even though, as in OG's case, some patching is needed afterwards.
Unless the staircase is almost free-standing, probably best to leave it in place. Paintstripper poultices work well on treads, risers, and strings (the side bits that everything fits into).
It's a labour of love, Ric.