Uvpc Guttering

[Bramleyboy]

I want to change the rotten wooden fascia boarding on our house. I will not do it myself, I will get a professional to do it. Please can anyone recommend a really good reliable make of UVPC fascia and guttering etc. The last time I had it done at my last house the quality of materials was very poor and thin.
Many thanks, Bramley.

[buildersmate]

For UPVC fascia boards, my first port of call would be Wickes. As you probably know, they are widely used by tradespeople to source their materials and for bulk/sheet/strip materials I find them quite good (in terms of range) and the quality is fine.
A quick look at their website reveals they sell fascia boards in 9mm and 18mm width and my guess is your previous operative used the thin stuff. That doesn't sound enough to me to mount guttering onto.

Guttering is widely available from plumbers' merchants and I prefer Osma, which is made by Wavin down your way in Chippenham. It is widely available. Marley and Hunter are other well-known and reputable brands, all with a wide range of colours and fixing options.

You don't need a 'specialist' to do this job - it is bog-standard maintenance and fitting work, though the replacement double-glazing crowd might have you believe otherwise, as it has become a sales extension opportunity on their staple diet of expensive DG replacement.

[The Builder]

I certainly agree with BM about the double-glazing "mafia". It's a simple job for any builder or handyman.

Just as an alternative, I often buy online from here:

http://www.nationalplastics.co.uk/

[Clanad]

At least here in the U.S., it's uncommon to have rotting or damaged fascia boards without having accompanying damage to a greater or lesser extent to the soffit boards. You may wish to have an estimate for replacing that system as well to assure a first class job.

Ifdamage has occured to the soffit I would also want to closely inspect the roofline just as it ends above the guttering. Water damage to the soffit can also result in damage to the supporting rafter ends.

Again, here in the U.S. building codes require a waterproof, rubberized glue down water barrier covering the last 3 feet width of the roof edge to keep ice dams from damaging that part of the roof and leaking into the house proper. This can only be accomplished if the roofing material (asphalt shingles, say) is removed and replaced back at least that far, along with the metal drip cap...

[Bramleyboy]

Thank you all. It's very difficult to choose a best answer when all are so good! Thank you. Bramley