Selling my rayburn

[what..the?]

I have been trying to sell my rayburn (installed in a house just bought)through the local papers, I have an interested party but have no idea what amount to ask for, I put in the paper £500 offers.

I have looked on ebay and there is only one being sold which is the exact same model as mine but its brand new (which is odd as the model is 9 years old).....compared to mine which was installed 9 years ago but hardly ever used as it was in a holiday home, mines very good condition but used. The one on ebay has 6 bids already and is now at £510 at the moment.

Mines a 308k oil rayburn royal blue, good condition. which cooks and heats water, but no radiators. Does anyone know about rayburns enough to offer assistance to me on price for this item.

Also I have been asked if it can come with the flue. I said know because I didn't know how this would be removed and if it would cause damage to my house and chimney. Could people offer assistance here too?

Thanks in advance

[sherrardk]

If your chimney is lined with a flue liner I would imagine it would be ripped to shreds if you tried to remove it. Did the people mean the stove pipe (the solid pipe connecting the Rayburn to the chimney/flue liner?).

[AlBags]

£500 is a good price. I would have the enamel part of flue (if it has it) taken out .. it is easy to remove normally. It may just go into the chimney opening.
I would have thought a new one was a recon. one.

[what..the?]

Hello sherrard and Albags :)

"£500 is a good price" what for me or them. So I'm not selling too low then? Whats the lowest I should go considering they are disconnecting and collecting?

Is it safe to get someone I don't know to disconnect, how easy is it on an oil system? I have asked the buyer to send people who are qualified/experienced to disconnect. I think her builder is installing so I think he will collect it.

Well some of the chimney is boarded up I can't see whats up there but the enamel pipes disappears beyond the boarding I so if it's just the lower enamel section (would that just slide alway and not damage anything) how long would this section be? I don't suppose it could be reused when I fit a new flue for a wood burner in another room, most likely not but thought I would check?

Thanks in advance

[AlBags]

500 quid is good for you if you can get it.
A builder can do that easily .. Just make sure there are some dust sheets available, as some soot may fall. The opening will have the enamel flue pass through, then it will be open . into the chimney entry .. or, if you have a liner it will be attached to that and unplug. You should have a piece of fibre-board or blanking material to close the opening off .. or plug the liner. The chimney top should have a vented cowl in metal or terracotta fitted if you no longer plan to use the chimney.
Straight enamel flues are 1M lengths normally .. It could have been shortened. Flue sizes vary, so I would give them the outlet and first part of flue at least. It's held in by not much more than fire cement at joints, and maybe a steady bracket inside the register plate in the opening.
Al.

[DTCwordfan]

why get rid of it, they are fab for a kitchen and help keep the house warm, good for cooking etc etc.

[AlBags]

One problem with Oil Rayburns is that you can't turn them down low enough .. so have to shut down completely in spring/summer.
So they are not practical for many people. The ovens are not particularly large either.
Good to supplement HW with a boiler though!

[what..the?]

they have asked me if the flue is cemented in or bolted, I was about to tell them the flue was not for sale.

So is the 'outlet' the box shaped structure between the rayburn and the flue/pipe. If I was the give them the first part of the flue if that would require unbolting, or breaking some fire cement, my concern is the chinmeys all need work and aren't in the best condition I dont want someone causing damage. All the rayburns for sale on ebay are just the rayburn and the boxy 'outlet' thing no pipes/flue

They are asking if I can turn the valves off in advance to stop the water and and oil going to the rayburn. Do I really need to do this in advance because I don't know where the valves are. Can't they turn off and drain when there?

[AlBags]

You have the boiler disconnected/drained down?
That needs doing and the Rayburn pipework isolating/joining. You should look for gatevalves in 22mm or 28mm on the pipework that supplies it (maybe in airing/cylinder cupboard)
The flue outlet .. (the box) will have to be disconnected from flue anyway. The flue might just drop/slide out from the opening into the register.
Running it out of oil is a good idea .. There should be a control box with a knob on it .. and an isolator at the tank or on pipework into control unit.