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How to put a 50inch tv on a wall.????????................................
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My daughter has just moved to a 18 month old house and all the walls sound hollow. Even the walls that are onto the next door neighbours. They are talking about fitting the tv back onto the wall like they had at there old house. Is it at all possible with these walls.? And has anyone else had the same trouble. many thanks
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.They need something like this
http://www.intecbrackets.co.uk/
http://www.intecbrackets.co.uk/
The brackets are long enough to span at least two upright timbers behind the plasterboard, so it's just a matter of finding out what centres they're at (usually 400 or 600mm) and screwing thru into them. You can buy joist detectors like this
http://www.google.co....-jdBw&ved=0CDMQ8gIwAA
http://www.google.co....-jdBw&ved=0CDMQ8gIwAA
How much does it weigh? Most plasterboard walls have vertical wooden framing at about 2ft intervals, you can find these with a stud detector or by tapping the wall and confirming by poking a thin (insulated) screwdriver through the plasterboard. You can then either screw your bracket directly onto the framing through the board or if the spacing doesn't work out right then screw one or more battens onto the framing then screw your bracket onto the battens(s)
for the past few years its been common practice for new build houses to have what's called "dot and dab" on the perimeter/dividing or load bearing walls, these are block work walls that are covered with plasterboard which is stuck in place using an adhesive, this method can give the impression of a hollow or stud wall where as the actual cavity between the plasterboard and the block work is merely 10/15mm......once the boards are stuck on the walls, the joints are filled and sanded to a smooth finish....this method is very much faster than the old bond and skim method......pushing a small screwdriver through the board in a discreet place will tell you if this method has been used and if this is the case then the old bracket will be fine as long as the fixings are long enough to be secured into the block.
Either "dry-lining" (dot & dab, solid masonry behind as Marden describes)) or maybe you have a timber frame house. The Party Wall between the houses may well be timber stud (locate the upright studs for fixing).
With timber frame, it's quite likely that there are two walls with a cavity between. I've done this myself....... "soundcheck" plasterboard, acoustic insulation, flexible fixings etc. Excellent soundproofing, and don't worry, no chance of it falling down ;o)
With timber frame, it's quite likely that there are two walls with a cavity between. I've done this myself....... "soundcheck" plasterboard, acoustic insulation, flexible fixings etc. Excellent soundproofing, and don't worry, no chance of it falling down ;o)
Sturdiness does not necessarily equate to better sound proofing, or thermal insulation for that matter.
That's the pain, when one replaces good old fashioned walls one can hang things on for improved sound/thermal characteristic which effectively make the wall unfit for purpose as far as putting anything on it is concerned. I only realised this when I put up coat pegs in the extended hall at my existing house. They all fell out because the thermo-type-block garbage couldn't hold them. It's a scandal ! an utter disgrace ! I ended up putting one back (all I really need) by drilling out a large diameter hole and plugging it with a decent filler, and then drilling again for the wall plug. Having created the problem in the first place, the industry is happy to charge you the earth for special wall plugs that can be screwed (?!?) into the wall, which, if you're lucky, and should hold fast.
In your case I think you need to go check what the wall between you and your neighbour really consists of. If it is the same rubbish they used in my extension then you can go to the DIY shed and buy those expensive thermal block fixings. Best of luck trying to screw them in without distorting or breaking them, or having the screwdriver slip and mark the surface though.
That's the pain, when one replaces good old fashioned walls one can hang things on for improved sound/thermal characteristic which effectively make the wall unfit for purpose as far as putting anything on it is concerned. I only realised this when I put up coat pegs in the extended hall at my existing house. They all fell out because the thermo-type-block garbage couldn't hold them. It's a scandal ! an utter disgrace ! I ended up putting one back (all I really need) by drilling out a large diameter hole and plugging it with a decent filler, and then drilling again for the wall plug. Having created the problem in the first place, the industry is happy to charge you the earth for special wall plugs that can be screwed (?!?) into the wall, which, if you're lucky, and should hold fast.
In your case I think you need to go check what the wall between you and your neighbour really consists of. If it is the same rubbish they used in my extension then you can go to the DIY shed and buy those expensive thermal block fixings. Best of luck trying to screw them in without distorting or breaking them, or having the screwdriver slip and mark the surface though.
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