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Pros And Cons Of Wooden Floors
39 Answers
We are considering laying wood flooring throughout the house and having underfloor heating so that radiators can be dispensed with.
What are the pros and cons in your experience?
What are the pros and cons in your experience?
Answers
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.A couple of things... we installed 3 1/2 inch wide oak flooring (actually called 'plankin' due to its width) here in the U.S. about 3 years ago. Full oak about 3/4 inch thick ... really liked it and still do.
One thing, the underalyment is important to avoid squeaky floors. The boards are nailed down with a special air gun and the nails go into the grooves of the tongue and groove part of the boards. The nails (or wire brads) need something really sturdy to be driven into. Best thing is 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch plywood, but many homes, at least here, were fitted with OSB (oriented strand board or commonly called "chip' board) back when it was popular and less expensive than plywood.
Well, we, fortunately, replaced the 'chip' board nearly everywhere before laying the hardwood, with the exception of a difficult to reach area in an entrance way. Guess where the floor squeaks? That's right... So, lesson learned, make sure the subfloor is sound and tight to insure a non-squeak installation. One addendum... here it's recommended a special paper be used between the flooring and the subfloor... it's called Red Resin and is indeed reddish. It's used to further reduce or eliminate floor squeaks caused by friction between the wood layers.
Some installers use the common roofing asphalt 'tar paper' (as it's called here... felt roofing paper elsewhere) as a vapor barrier but I dislike the smell of it in the house...
Good luck!
One thing, the underalyment is important to avoid squeaky floors. The boards are nailed down with a special air gun and the nails go into the grooves of the tongue and groove part of the boards. The nails (or wire brads) need something really sturdy to be driven into. Best thing is 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch plywood, but many homes, at least here, were fitted with OSB (oriented strand board or commonly called "chip' board) back when it was popular and less expensive than plywood.
Well, we, fortunately, replaced the 'chip' board nearly everywhere before laying the hardwood, with the exception of a difficult to reach area in an entrance way. Guess where the floor squeaks? That's right... So, lesson learned, make sure the subfloor is sound and tight to insure a non-squeak installation. One addendum... here it's recommended a special paper be used between the flooring and the subfloor... it's called Red Resin and is indeed reddish. It's used to further reduce or eliminate floor squeaks caused by friction between the wood layers.
Some installers use the common roofing asphalt 'tar paper' (as it's called here... felt roofing paper elsewhere) as a vapor barrier but I dislike the smell of it in the house...
Good luck!
Alternative to excavation would be to install directly over your existing screed. The trouble is, the minimum thickness will be...
40mm insulation
30mm poured, self-levelling screed
20mm timber flooring
Only practicable if you can afford to lose 90mm ceiling height, and door heights. Easily done in older high-ceilinged houses, but not so in a modern house.
40mm insulation
30mm poured, self-levelling screed
20mm timber flooring
Only practicable if you can afford to lose 90mm ceiling height, and door heights. Easily done in older high-ceilinged houses, but not so in a modern house.
I believe we have bottomed out (boom, boom) the depth issue, with regard to digging into the screed, raising floor level, doors etc.
From my perspective I was interested in receiving comments about overall effectiveness, noise, maintenance, etc.
There is a little part of me that fancies a party where everyone MUST wear stilettos to give it that lived in look.
However I'm planning on putting down some awesome, very large rugs......
Thanks for the comments and any other thoughts are warmly received.
From my perspective I was interested in receiving comments about overall effectiveness, noise, maintenance, etc.
There is a little part of me that fancies a party where everyone MUST wear stilettos to give it that lived in look.
However I'm planning on putting down some awesome, very large rugs......
Thanks for the comments and any other thoughts are warmly received.
Yes, that's the problem with fitting UFH retrospectively. I don't think it's on in your case, sadly.
Certainly go ahead with hardwood flooring though. Simply glued to your existing screed.
Everywhere that I have been involved in loves the simple, easy-clean finish. I have a reclaimed maple floor throughout my house (reclaimed from a squash court.)
You could have bare timber, then oil or seal it. I would recommend pre-sealed flooring. You'll probably never have to touch it again. The finish is truly nuke-proof. I've tried sanding some as an experiment. Belt sanders will hardly touch it........ only stilettos ;o(
Certainly go ahead with hardwood flooring though. Simply glued to your existing screed.
Everywhere that I have been involved in loves the simple, easy-clean finish. I have a reclaimed maple floor throughout my house (reclaimed from a squash court.)
You could have bare timber, then oil or seal it. I would recommend pre-sealed flooring. You'll probably never have to touch it again. The finish is truly nuke-proof. I've tried sanding some as an experiment. Belt sanders will hardly touch it........ only stilettos ;o(
How do you NOT dry washing in the house when it rains so much in this country (obviously I hang mine outdoors when it's fine)? And I wouldn't call "overnight in the kitchen" quick compared with radiators.
Re wood flooring - according to friends who have it, you have to put protective pads on every single leg of every single piece of furniture in order not to have dents and scratches all over it.
Re wood flooring - according to friends who have it, you have to put protective pads on every single leg of every single piece of furniture in order not to have dents and scratches all over it.
I am led to believe we have found a UFH system that will work The Builder.....fingers crossed it is so!
Bright spark, there is precious little running between our void that would require attention. And if it did I would tut and say 'I told you so!', I would then move out whilst any required remedial work was undertaken.
Bright spark, there is precious little running between our void that would require attention. And if it did I would tut and say 'I told you so!', I would then move out whilst any required remedial work was undertaken.
There is hardly anything that doesn’t have any cons. If I talk about hardwood floors no doubt they are perfect and give a rich look to our home interior. I selected engineered hardwood floors from http:// www.pcw oodfloo rs.com/ locatio ns/broo klyn and found them very comfortable for my kids to play on it. Such floors are more hygienic and last for decades. Cost can be the disadvantage and their maintenance like polishing in case of high traffic area, but its overall look makes all difference.
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