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Why 16 Amp Power
9 Answers
I have been told by John Lewis that I need to have a 16 amps power setting before they can fit the oven that I want to buy from them..In my Main fuse box all I can see is 30Ma and 80a... Is this what they mean and is it ok?
Answers
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What you were looking at on the board were 30milliamps, which is the tripping current for the RCD (shown on the RCD itself), and 80Amps which is probably the main switch.
Ignore all that. What you need is a cooker circuit. I'm sure you must have one.
If you don't have that, then you need to have someone install a 20Amp radial circuit from the board to the cooker position.
Ignore all that. What you need is a cooker circuit. I'm sure you must have one.
If you don't have that, then you need to have someone install a 20Amp radial circuit from the board to the cooker position.
Thanks for the reply.... But the oven I have is built in (like the one I am buying) so everything electricity wise is underneath my work surface at the back of the built in cooker thats already there so I can't tell I did say this to J.L. and they said look at your main fuse box which I have done and under the cooker switch it makes no mention of 16 amps - it just says B40 5940s 230/400v.
Obviously, I don't know what circuit you have now, but if you already have an oven, Kate, I'm pretty safe in saying that the present circuit will do the job.
In your consumer unit (fuse-box) there is most likely a 32Amp or maybe a 40 or 45Amp circuit breaker (or fuse). It should have been marked "Cooker".
The B40 may well be a 40Amp Type B breaker. It could well be the one.
Is there a cooker switch above the worktop. There should be.
In your consumer unit (fuse-box) there is most likely a 32Amp or maybe a 40 or 45Amp circuit breaker (or fuse). It should have been marked "Cooker".
The B40 may well be a 40Amp Type B breaker. It could well be the one.
Is there a cooker switch above the worktop. There should be.
I go along with everything which has been said by The Builder.
The connection to my cooker is inside a cupboard alongside the built-in oven. However, there is a Cooker Switch underneath a wall cupboard which is alongside the hotplates which are built into the work surface above the oven.
I feel sure you have something simmular to what I have. In which case you should Not have any difficulties with replacing your present oven with a new one.
Hans.
The connection to my cooker is inside a cupboard alongside the built-in oven. However, there is a Cooker Switch underneath a wall cupboard which is alongside the hotplates which are built into the work surface above the oven.
I feel sure you have something simmular to what I have. In which case you should Not have any difficulties with replacing your present oven with a new one.
Hans.
Thank you both for your help. I'll take myself back up to John Lewis and try again... FYI I don't have a cooker switch that is visible, I assume everything is under they worktop behind the actual oven..So short of paying an electrician to come in and take out the old oven and check (when JL are being paid to do that when they fit the new one) its become a bit of a mission - For the past week I've driven every man I know mad with it and even some I don't know! I Should have mentioned new kitchen was fitted about 3 years ago so electrics should all be up to scratch..
Anyway thanks again to you both..
Anyway thanks again to you both..
I have just looked at my built in cooker and the wires from the flat grey cable (twin and earth) coming out of the oven have been shoved into a plug !! It's been like this for the last 12 years but now I know about it I'll have to wire it into a cooker switch for peace of mind. (it is a cooker circuit rated at 30A but someone has put a double socket on the end of it)
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