ChatterBank2 mins ago
Since I Swapped To Led Lightbulbs, My Rheostat Has Become Noisey!
14 Answers
Hi, I replaced the three 40W incandescent bulbs in my lounge light fitting with 6.2v LED bulbs.
However, the wall rotary dimming control now makes a loud 'buzzing' noise on all but its maximum setting. I swapped the old bulbs back in, and the noise went, suggesting to me that the switch has not developed a fault. These bulbs were sold as being suitable for dimming, (they actually dim just fine), but this noise is audible above conversation, and is unacceptable. Do I need a different rheostat or is mine on its way out?
However, the wall rotary dimming control now makes a loud 'buzzing' noise on all but its maximum setting. I swapped the old bulbs back in, and the noise went, suggesting to me that the switch has not developed a fault. These bulbs were sold as being suitable for dimming, (they actually dim just fine), but this noise is audible above conversation, and is unacceptable. Do I need a different rheostat or is mine on its way out?
Answers
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.I hope they are 6.2W rather than 6.2 V, as the latter would not work well on mains voltages...
As said, these things draw very little current, so older dimmers (and wiring) sometimes need updating before they work properly with the low-current systems.
I replaced some dimmable 300W halogen bulbs with 19W (dimmable) LEDs, and wnen on full power it's fine, but as soon as we try to reduce the power, the bulbs flash in an unacceptable way.
If you want all three bulbs to be LEDs, then you will probably need to either replace the dimmer switch, or add some ballast (more resistance) to the circuit.
Alternatively, things will probably be OK if you have 2 LEDs and one incandescent bulb in the fitting. It will save energy, but may look a little weird..
Incidentally, dimmers tend not to be rheostats (pure resistance) that reduce the level of the power, but electronic devices that chop up the current into a series of pulses.
I replaced all bulbs on our house with LEDs a couple of years ago and it is a big saving, but there are a few small compromises to be made.
As said, these things draw very little current, so older dimmers (and wiring) sometimes need updating before they work properly with the low-current systems.
I replaced some dimmable 300W halogen bulbs with 19W (dimmable) LEDs, and wnen on full power it's fine, but as soon as we try to reduce the power, the bulbs flash in an unacceptable way.
If you want all three bulbs to be LEDs, then you will probably need to either replace the dimmer switch, or add some ballast (more resistance) to the circuit.
Alternatively, things will probably be OK if you have 2 LEDs and one incandescent bulb in the fitting. It will save energy, but may look a little weird..
Incidentally, dimmers tend not to be rheostats (pure resistance) that reduce the level of the power, but electronic devices that chop up the current into a series of pulses.
I replaced all bulbs on our house with LEDs a couple of years ago and it is a big saving, but there are a few small compromises to be made.
Your using a something called a leading edge dimmer in your circuit. You need to change it to a trailing edge dimmer. The buzzing will then disappear and you'll have full control over the LED lamps as long as they are of the dimmable variety. Don't continue to use your present dimmer in circuit as you'll cause permanent damage to it like this.
I'd suggest you visit you local Screwfix and have a chat with the boys behind the counter as to the most suitable trailing edge dimmer to buy. A quick look at the reviews online of their product number 94816 seems to show it being recommended for just the purpose you need. Check out the reviews online yourself. Trailing edge dimmers tend to be marginally more expensive but do the job.
I'd suggest you visit you local Screwfix and have a chat with the boys behind the counter as to the most suitable trailing edge dimmer to buy. A quick look at the reviews online of their product number 94816 seems to show it being recommended for just the purpose you need. Check out the reviews online yourself. Trailing edge dimmers tend to be marginally more expensive but do the job.
Something like this, ................
Amazon.co.uk User Recommendation
Be careful buying dimmers. LED loads (wattage) are so low, that you need a dimmer that can operate properly at your load. The one above has a minimum requirement of 10watts. Your load is 18watts .. so Ok.
Amazon.co.uk User Recommendation
Be careful buying dimmers. LED loads (wattage) are so low, that you need a dimmer that can operate properly at your load. The one above has a minimum requirement of 10watts. Your load is 18watts .. so Ok.
As this fitment is the one used most throughout the house not using the LEDs here would rather do away with the whole point of buying them. Similarly, the dimming function is very popular in the room in the evenings! So, I guess I will have to replace the back box, it seems to be just held in place with one screw directly into the plaster, which I presume I will then have to chip away to get the depth I need, not sure it will be deep enough to take another screw though. Its a plasterboard partion wall, and I have seen some plastic boxes with fitting lugs that snap out from the sides to hold against the plasterboard, maybe I will try one of those.
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