Synchronous Motor For 3 Prt Valve

[fbg40]

Very basically, the 3 way valve in my CH system is making a horrible noise ( placed the tip of a long screwdriver onto the body and the handle end to my ear ) and would like to know whether or not it's worth replacing the synchronous motor inside the main body. I don't really want to spend a lot - one from Screwfix is around £13. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
FBG40

[Atheist]

What's the noise like? Can you hear it without the screwdriver? Could it be some other component which is actually generating the noise? (test by putting the screwdriver somewhere else).
When is the noise? Is it only when the valve is opening or shutting?

Maybe someone more knowledgeable will turn up here soon.

[youngmafbog]

I'd be surprised if the y valve was making much noise, usually the pump (which will be right by it normally).

Personally I'd probably never replace the motor, just hoik out the valve and replace it entirely.

I got rid of mine years ago, I fitted a Grunfos double pump so no valves at all, one pump for H/W and one for C/H.

[fbg40]

I would say the noise is like a fast clicking noise ( imagine a playing card being put through the spokes of a bike wheel !). It's definitely not the pump - that was replaced last week. The valve is the only other thing in the airing cupboard - it is noticeable with the door shut as well !! It really comes down to cost - a replacement body about £100, a motor about £13. Thanks for the replies folks.
FBG40

[fbg40]

Sorry Atheist, yes - the noise is when it's "trying" to open.
FBG40

[pimplyteen]

If the valve is clogged up and hard to turn, it will destroy the new motor in no time.

[pimplyteen]

The ticking you are hearing is the motor working overtime to turn the valve.

[The Builder]

Since the pump has been replaced, I would definitely do the same with the motor itself.
For the price of it, it's well worth a shot fbg.

[youngmafbog]

Ah, so more info.

On the side of the Y valve will be a little lever. Try moving this to manually move the valve and free it up. This is often a problem when firing up the C/H after a long spell of only water being called for.

If the valve is stuck replacing the motor will do nothing.

[fbg40]

Thanks again folks, much appreciated.
FBG40

[Atheist]

Definitely try to open the valve using the little lever. You might need to unlatch it (if you look closely you should see what I mean).

[pimplyteen]

Don't know if they are still the same, but the keyway inside the motor, ( that fits over the valve body) is made from a hard nylon. Over time as the valve becomes harder to turn, the nylon keyway will crack, the ticking you hear could well be the nylon skipping over the key, instead of turning it.

[fbg40]

Me again, just to let you all know that it was a faulty motor which has now been replaced and all is quiet !! Thanks again for the answers.
FBG40