Heating system

[horselady]

We haven't lived in our house long and have just started using the central heating. It's a system where there is a thermostat in the hall and this picks up radio frequency from the unit in the kitchen. Every so often the little aerial symbol on the unit starts flashing along with the green light beside the CH indicator. When this happens I can't alter the heating or anything, the only way to stop is is to press the reset button. It's as if the radio link between the two units is lost. Any ideas?

[rabbitygirl]

I think these units are the work of the devil horselady. I am on my 2nd unit since my system went in a year ago. And the new one is little better.

I have a bungalow so transmitter and receiver can never be far from each other. But I now keep both in the kitchen and get less 'red light' problems, ie can't do it's job while that's showing. I have discussed with the manufacturer what could interrupt my signal but they are no help.

I renew batteries frequently, cannot trust the place to be warm when I get in and it resets the time of day whenever it fancies so heat comes on at odd times.

Been busy lately but will have an old fashioned wired in thermostat fitted at some point and will have great pleasure in chucking this flipping thing in the bin.

Central heating engineers, it seems, fall into 2 camps; I fit them but they can be a bit temperamental or I never touch them......

[horselady]

Oh god that sounds ominous rabbitygirl. This is a bungalow too and as you say the two units aren't exactly a million miles from each other. It's done it twice since I got in at 6.30. I think I'll give someone a ring tomorrow, I was worried I couldn't explain the problem adequately and it sounded a bit daft, but it sounds as though it may be quite common with these things. Thanks for your thoughts.

[gucciman]

The main reason these wireless units are used is so the installers can save time in wiring up conventional ones and having to lift floorboards or chase into plasterwork, and if you do it in plastic trunking then the householders moan its looks messy.

the transmitter and reciever units do lose the signal between each other, the main reason being if you have a power cut or if the batteries go, you then have to re-establish the link which is usually easy enough if you have the instruction book.

honeywell wireless programable stats are worth a look as they uniquely operate at a higher frequency (around 860mhz) than other makes (around 450mhz) and are much less prone to interference as most other wireless appliances, mobiles etc also operate around the 450 mhz mark. also, the honeywell ones automatically sync with each other as soon as the power is turned on, they are known to be quite reliable and retail around the 80 quid mark.

[gucciman]

oh i forgot to mention that room stats should not be in a kitchen as they will react to the heat and humidity from your cooking and you'll end up with a cold house.
the best place for one is usually in the hallway but not too near a radiator. you also never fit one in the same room as a thermostatic radiator valve (trv) as the 2 will conflict with each other.

[rabbitygirl]

Interesting gucciman. I've been quoted around �100-120 for a wired in one and as we haven't finished our kitchen yet I wouldn't mind any mess involved in doing that.

But learned something new here and what you say makes sense. Will discuss with Mr R with a view to giving the Honeywell one a go. Thanks.

[rabbitygirl]

Thanks again gucciman. The kitchen is open to the lounge and I make allowance for increase in temperature and humidity while cooking. Needs to be set at a higher temp to keep it going but I'm used to that now.

Far less trouble with the thing since I put it in there.

[horselady]

Thanks gucciman, that info helps a lot.

[simonruss]

The only room that shouldnt have a TRV is ideally the bathroom. The thermostat should be sited in a place of constant temperature not near any doors/windows

[gucciman]

a conventional honeywell room stat (which we regard as the best has they have a built in heat anticipator which gives much more accurate results) are only around �25 so the rest of the cost you have been quoted is going to be labour for the lifting of any floor boards and chasing and replastering the wire into the walls. they are certainly going to be less troublesome than a wireless one and another advantage is if it did break in a few years you can easily and cheaply replace it as the wires will already be there.