I want to lay a new lawn. Where do I start

A.� As always, with the soil. You need to know what lies below the surface before you do anything else.

�

Even if you have what looks like a perfectly decent topsoil it can often disguise a multitude of sins, especially with new houses where builders may have dumped building waste or compacted the ground with heavy machinery.

�

Dig down to a foot and a half and see what you find. If you hit rubble, a very hard layer or clay, the soil will need to be improved. In extreme cases you will have to strip away this subsoil and replace it with fresh soil and some organic matter.

�

If you are replacing an existing lawn, take off the old turf by cutting into squares (go down about 5-6 inches) with a spade and then lift it section by section. These squares can be stacked and allowed to rot down for compost.

�

Q.� Ok, I've got the basic soil structure right, what's next

A.� The following goes whether you are seeding or turfing. Spread a good 50cm layer of coarse sand�or grit onto the surface and then mix it in to the undersoil. This will ensure good drainage. You may need to think about drains or gullies if you're on heavy clay.

�

Then add a further layer of topsoil, 8-10cm deep, and level it off by treading down and raking. Your now ready to add the grass.

�

A.� That's up to you. Turf is immediate, but a lot more expensive, and make sure you buy from a reputable dealer. The best time to turf is between March and May and September to November.

�

Water the soil first and start with any curved or awkward areas, cutting the turf with a knife. Then lay in straight lines, making sure to pull the edges of each turf into the next one to avoid gaps, then tap down. The lawn should be ready for action within six weeks.

�

When seeding, water first then sow to around 60 grams per square metre, then rake in so roughly half the seed is covered. Don't water again until the seedlings come up as this can compact the soil. You may want to initially protect from birds with netting. A spring-sown lawn is usually usable within ten weeks.