What do I need to do before I start tiling

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Then there are the various different surfaces and the preparation each require. If tiling onto plaster ensure it is flat, dry and free of loose pieces. Plasterboard can be tiled directly onto as long as it is firmly anchored to the wall, but painted surfaces will need to be thoroughly roughen with sandpaper to allow the adhesive to take. Never apply direct to papered walls as the glue holding the paper will not be strong enough.

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You can put new tiles directly onto old tiles and plain brickwork. However, the latter will require a thick-bed adhesive which may require an expert.

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A.� First buy your tiles. Calculate the area to cover and buy accordingly, always adding a few extra to cover breakages.

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It is vital your first row is straight because if they're not, none of subsequent rows will be either. Measure approximately one tile's height up from the floor or skirting board, which are rarely level, and fix a baton onto the wall, ensuring it is straight using a spirit level, then do the same vertically. You now have a main area to be tiled.

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Apply your tiling adhesive with a trowel and then score with a notched spreader. Place the first tile in the right angle of the two battens, press firmly and then put a tile spacer before laying the second tile next to it, and so on.

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A.� You'll need a good sharp tile cutter. Measure the gap to be filled, or in the case of a curve cut make a paper template of the shape required. Mark where to cut on the glazed side and then score with the cutter, in one stroke when possible. Either place the tile over a matchsticks and push down gently or if the portion to be taken off is fiddly, nibble away at it gently with a pair of pliers.

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A.� You'll need to leave the adhesive 12 hours to dry and then you can grout. These days most grouts can be applied with a piece of sponge, with the excess wiped off the tiles with a fresh piece of sponge.

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Tom Gard�