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immersion heater element
8 Answers
Hi,
My immersion heater element has gone pop. is there anyway I can tell how long it is without removing it?
thanks,
Percy.
My immersion heater element has gone pop. is there anyway I can tell how long it is without removing it?
thanks,
Percy.
Answers
1 to 8 of 8
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Element Size
27" elements heat the whole tank. This is the most common size.
This might help
11" elements are used for top heat only, and for whole tank heating with Fortic tanks.
14", 18" 30" and 36" elements are also available, but are less common than 11" & 27". The element should generally be 3" - 6" shorter than the max length fittable.
27" elements heat the whole tank. This is the most common size.
This might help
11" elements are used for top heat only, and for whole tank heating with Fortic tanks.
14", 18" 30" and 36" elements are also available, but are less common than 11" & 27". The element should generally be 3" - 6" shorter than the max length fittable.
first, check to see if you have a reset button on the thermostat that goes into the element. if so, try and reset. if the element is going in diagonally (this is generally a 22 inch element) ie, near the top of the tank. if it goes in from the side (this is generally a 11 inch element) if you are going to attempt this yourself. make sure you drain off the water from the tank using a hose pipe and the bleed off union at the bottom of the tank. ***TURNING OFF THE WATER SUPPLY UNTIL WATER STOPS RUNNING FROM TAPS WILL STILL LEAVE YOU WITH A FULL TANK.***
Percy. I dont want to offend by saying you are not capable of this task. But this is not an easy job with the knowledge and RIGHT tool.
there are cheap socket spanners out there at plumb centres that are completely usless. tanks are made of very flimsy copper (TANKS TWIST)
I have attended to many after home owners have had a go themselves. the most common mistake is the tank is still full of water.
SEEK GOOD ADVISE FIRST
there are cheap socket spanners out there at plumb centres that are completely usless. tanks are made of very flimsy copper (TANKS TWIST)
I have attended to many after home owners have had a go themselves. the most common mistake is the tank is still full of water.
SEEK GOOD ADVISE FIRST
Thanks shooty,
I was an engineer and have C&G in electrical wiring, but I must admit I thought it was just a matter of turning the water off at the header tank and mains supply, drain a drop out of the cylinder and unscrew the element. I think there is a drain valve half way up the tank, so I will make sure no water comes out before I unscrew the element. my wife is used to me flooding the house on central heating alterations, one time I had to leave her with her thumb over a pipe while i went to B&Q for the right size compression blanking fitting. she was not happy but I was only gone 20 mins. some woman, I don't know, do nothing but moan.
Percy.
I was an engineer and have C&G in electrical wiring, but I must admit I thought it was just a matter of turning the water off at the header tank and mains supply, drain a drop out of the cylinder and unscrew the element. I think there is a drain valve half way up the tank, so I will make sure no water comes out before I unscrew the element. my wife is used to me flooding the house on central heating alterations, one time I had to leave her with her thumb over a pipe while i went to B&Q for the right size compression blanking fitting. she was not happy but I was only gone 20 mins. some woman, I don't know, do nothing but moan.
Percy.
well,
looked at the immersion today, all wiring burnt and bald. Shooty was correct about those stupid cheap spanners, little chance of removing the element without wrecking the cylinder. ( although I tried) I then decided it was probably the stat that had failed, so removed the stat from the new element and slid that into place, then realised that there was no earth connection on the existing element. I noticed a small round hole that was gunged up, thought that it was probably where the earth rod should go, cleaned it with a screwdriver, then " pop" water gushed out, finger over hole, what to do now?? grabbed a towel, stemmed the leak which subsided, tried to screw a self tapping screw with ptfe taope wrapped round, but not much good. I drained some water with a fine tube, got a blow torch and soldered a brass screw into the hole. refitted the new stat, and all is well ( we hope)hot water.
I went to wickes to price up a cylinder, they are £205. copper is as thin as a fag paper.
percy.
looked at the immersion today, all wiring burnt and bald. Shooty was correct about those stupid cheap spanners, little chance of removing the element without wrecking the cylinder. ( although I tried) I then decided it was probably the stat that had failed, so removed the stat from the new element and slid that into place, then realised that there was no earth connection on the existing element. I noticed a small round hole that was gunged up, thought that it was probably where the earth rod should go, cleaned it with a screwdriver, then " pop" water gushed out, finger over hole, what to do now?? grabbed a towel, stemmed the leak which subsided, tried to screw a self tapping screw with ptfe taope wrapped round, but not much good. I drained some water with a fine tube, got a blow torch and soldered a brass screw into the hole. refitted the new stat, and all is well ( we hope)hot water.
I went to wickes to price up a cylinder, they are £205. copper is as thin as a fag paper.
percy.
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