Music0 min ago
Bleeding Radiators!!!
12 Answers
My fathers radiators are very hot and cold! I have got a key to bleed them, but don't know in which sequence - if any- I need to do them in! Of the 11 radiators in the house, some are very hot (too hot to touch!) when the system is on, some are warm and some are stone cold! This is an old house with an old system. Will bleeding them sort this out ? Or is the old man, in the old house with old radiators needing to be COMPLETELY overhauled? Any help or advice would be much appreciated before he dies of hypothermia!
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.If attempting to bleed one of the cold rads merely results in water starting to emerge (and no gas), this system does NOT need bleeding. Bleeding seems to be seen as the panacea for all ills to do with hot and cold rads, when by-and-large it is nothing to do with it. The system probably needs balancing. This means increasing or reducing the flow of water in some rads in relationship to the others. There's an explanation on how to do it here.
http://www.diydata.co...adiator_balancing.php
http://www.diydata.co...adiator_balancing.php
It is worth the investment in a couple of little click-on thermometers - about £10 I would guess. Balancing isn't all that difficult, but it does take a heck of a time because you have to allow time for the temperatures in the various parts of the system to change aftetr an adjustment has been made.
The other issue that it is not always clear which rads are closest to the boiler (in terms of length of pipework) and which are farthest away. You will just have to experiment. When you start, make a note of how many turns (measured in quarter turns) each lockshield takes to open it up completely - that way you can always return it to where it was if you get into a complete mess.
Do not be surprised if the rad closest to the boiler is only a tiny bit open (maybe only one quarter turn from being competely shut) - if you are getting the necessary temperature drop across the rad, enough energy is being pumped into it and being given out into the room.
The other issue that it is not always clear which rads are closest to the boiler (in terms of length of pipework) and which are farthest away. You will just have to experiment. When you start, make a note of how many turns (measured in quarter turns) each lockshield takes to open it up completely - that way you can always return it to where it was if you get into a complete mess.
Do not be surprised if the rad closest to the boiler is only a tiny bit open (maybe only one quarter turn from being competely shut) - if you are getting the necessary temperature drop across the rad, enough energy is being pumped into it and being given out into the room.