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Surfing Giant Waves.

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sandyRoe | 15:58 Tue 04th Feb 2014 | Sport
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How do the surfers survive when the wave eventually crashes on the beach?
http://video.uk.msn.com/watch/video/daredevil-surfer-rides-giant-wave-in-portugal/2uxbmx51j
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Do they?
not sure what you mean, they ride the waves until coming into the shore,
the wave has rather dissipated by that stage.
mind you that big a wave will cause you a headache if you hit the deck hard.
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I'd thought that when the waves reached the shore there be a mass of foam, undercurrents, danger.
When my daughter was little we were on holiday in Cornwall and I wanted to get a photo of her on her surfboard. It didn't come out the first time so I asked her to go back into the water on her surfboard so I could re-take the photograph. She did as I said and a big wave knocked her off the surfboard and she grazed all her tummy on some shingle. She's never let me forget what a cruel mother I am!
sandy..I was dragged under and out at that very same beach some years ago..it was really scary..my ex managed to grab me and pull me out..had I been on my own it may have been..no more minty !!
What I want to know is, how do they measure the height of the waves to prove a world record?

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