Multi-Million/Billionaires Owning Farms
Society & Culture0 min ago
Had this new boiler fitted and works welland very quiet after my 10yr old one - but having troible with controls. He set it up for me but does not go on/off when I want it to.
On my old boiler I had a maual stat on wall. I set it on the boiler to go off at 10pm and on in morning at 6am and urind day when I wanted heat I manually turned up the stat and own again when it was hot enough.
The engineer set th times up for me and they work perfectly but when I wanted to set it to come on now if it says say 25deg in big digits (current room temp?) I have to keep pressing the up button and it does not come on until it says about 30 deg!
I thought that if the room temp showed say 25 and it was of then I set it to 26 or 27 it would immediately ignite but it does not. The engineer told me to leave it on auto but should I set it to Manual and will that then work like my old boiler? Everything else ok and hot water comes though immediatey piping hot.
Usre book is a bit vauge on setting up.
Thanks all
Moggie
If you set it to manual you will have to turn it on and off every day, if you want heating.
I haven't got a Valiant but my controller does show the current room temperature and I would expect yours to as well.
If the temperature has dropped and I want the heating to come on again I press the boost button. Have you tried that?
I just had a new boiler & the controls are a bit more fiddly than just turning a manual thermostst dial.
There is some overshoot - if you set 21 it will go off at 21 but the residual heat in the rads will take the temp up to 22. If you want more heat you have to set at least 1 degree over the present room temp.
The equivalent differences on yours seem excessive.
On 'manual', the system will respond when you adjust the displayed Temperature.
On 'auto', it'll only operate during the time period you have set for it to come on. If the period is currently off, then altering the display will make no difference.
In your case, I'd use 'auto', and forget about it. If you do find you need to adjust the current temperature, then look in the operating instructions for something like 'boost', or 'advance'.
I can't say any more without knowing the exact make and model of the wireless controller. Controllers can be any make, not necessarily made by the boiler manufacturers.
More or less what the others have said. 😊
Thanks The Buider in particular
When it does come on it takes about 20 mins for the temp on the boiler to reach 75 which the engineer set it to he said (same as on my old boiler) The rads are reasobly hot then (my old 14 year old Worcester boiler got hot in about 10 mins.
One thing I have noticed is that after the fitter had left one large rad in living room is cold and the first rad in the system is cold. Would that make a difference in time to heat up?
If I get someone to bleed these two rads will the water go round the system faster? Excuse me - I am in my 80s and good on computers and understand how the controller should work. Says Center Wolsesy on control. There is nothing said about a boost/advance button and the only button boiler is called start/reset
Thanks
Moggie
It doesn't seem right - taking too long to heat up & definitely needs bleeding if some rads are cold.
75 seems very hot - you would barely be able to touch the rads at that temperature. Mine was set at 60 by the fitter but I found that too hot & have reduced it to 50. (40-80 is the usually acceptable range.)
If you get the basics sorted the controller may work better. (?)
Yes, it's quite normal for a system to need a bit of fiddling while it's 'settling in'.
Do call him back re: bleeding, but I would be more interested in 'balancing' the system. On the other end of a radiator (NOT the end with the numbered dial) there is a valve that controls just how much hot water is used by each rad. In an unbalanced system, a few 'greedy' rads could hog the available heat and cause one or two other rads to be starved.
Ask him also about 'temporary override.' That's like a 'boost' or an 'advance.' That's so you can get the system to operate during an 'off' period if you need a boost while the system is otherwise idle.
I've had a quick look at the userguide for a Wolsely Central controller and I can't make sense of it either. 🤔
Thanks the builder
Fitter is coming back today to bleed two radiators which are cold. Funny you should mention about other end of rad because it did have some heat in it and then fitters mate was messing around at opposite end of rad and did not bleed it so it is now cold!
As you say the control is very difficult to understand but I managed to work it. I have it set to go off at 10pm and on again at 6.40am and it stays on all day and we switch it on/off as needed as we did with old manual stat. Problem is it is not very accurate so if the middle fisgue show say 25. then if I press up to 26. it should work but I have to set it at at least 27 before boiler cuts in = same when I switch off have to put it at say 23 before boiler cuts off! Anyway it is giving me heat and really hot water fast which the wife loves.
I printed out the control books as it was too small to read and went thru the menu and everything is set as it should be for times etc. but for an 83 year old (who is really computer literate) it is a nightmare.
Will come back once fitter has been
Thanks again
Sorted! Thanks The Builder and everyone else's suggestions.
The Boiler Engineer returned a while ago and went staight to the two completely cold rads which I watched his colleague supposedly bleed but it seemed he messed with the little balance controls at oppoite end of rads - they now work perfectly on all rooms. Also when boiler clicks on it now goes up to my preset degrees much quicker.
The wireless control is not the best - very fiddly - but I have mastered it now.
Thanks again all
Moggie
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