Ok this is what you do.
In your project once you have the inlay card (or rear booklet) with your track list on it right click and choos properties. It should open a window with the Tracks tab open.
As you say changing the font currently only changes the track number but if you click on one of the elements in the little window under fields which has track number, title, playtime and choose a different font or colour then click ok you should see the changes you've made.
If you check the small box bottom left which says show sample window you can make the changes and it will show up in the sample window before committing it to the main document.
Again this is not well documented in the help files, I figured this out by playing around with the software and discovering for myself.
I've found sometimes certain fonts and colours look good on a plain background but disappear when a picture background is used. If using a picture with text over the top, a simpler monochromatic image is best. Some of those blurry samples provided can be very effective backgrounds. Keep the bolder more colourful images with just a single line of bold text.
Look at the Now series of pop CDs as an example of very bold and busy front cover with just the Now that's what I call logo on. The back cover with the track list is usually a more muted colour either dark background and white text or lighter background with black text.