ChatterBank0 min ago
Towel Radiator Doesn't Heat Up, Doesn't Need Bleeding
18 Answers
Hi,
My towel radiator in the bathroom hasn't heated up when I've got the heating on in the house, since last year. Tried bleeding it but water came out straight away. Does heat though not really hot using the electric switch (that was installed with the radiator originally, so it could still be used if the boiler packed up). It's about 10yrs old.
Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks
My towel radiator in the bathroom hasn't heated up when I've got the heating on in the house, since last year. Tried bleeding it but water came out straight away. Does heat though not really hot using the electric switch (that was installed with the radiator originally, so it could still be used if the boiler packed up). It's about 10yrs old.
Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks
Answers
Best Answer
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ."If it was blocked enough to stop the circulation of water then your boiler would not heat it but the electric could still heat the water in the rad."
Makes sense.
I hadn't touched any valves since it was installed & working fine for 8yrs. I've now turned all the trvs on the other rads right down, except one in a bedroom I can't get to easily. Can't turn the other ends (lockshields ?) without using a spanner but I've never touched them.
Makes sense.
I hadn't touched any valves since it was installed & working fine for 8yrs. I've now turned all the trvs on the other rads right down, except one in a bedroom I can't get to easily. Can't turn the other ends (lockshields ?) without using a spanner but I've never touched them.
Haven't looked at that check list yet, sidetracked with something else now.
System doesn't have a rust inhibitor so could be a possibility I guess. Be ironic though as it's by far the newest rad in the house. How would I flush it ? Youtube beckons ... probably ... ;)
New one ? Bit costly, what with having to get a plumber in ...
'Tis the only one not working, wouldn't have a clue about balancing - all the others work fine, the towel rail suddenly wasn't working last year. No changes since, no.
System doesn't have a rust inhibitor so could be a possibility I guess. Be ironic though as it's by far the newest rad in the house. How would I flush it ? Youtube beckons ... probably ... ;)
New one ? Bit costly, what with having to get a plumber in ...
'Tis the only one not working, wouldn't have a clue about balancing - all the others work fine, the towel rail suddenly wasn't working last year. No changes since, no.
If it's the only one not working you can take it off and flush it yourself, so long as you feel competent.
Close the adjustable valve fully.
With a spanner close the other valve COUNTING THE TURNS ON THE SPANNER.
You can now undo the two valves from the towel rail, leaving them connected to the pipework. YOU WILL HAVE WATER COMING OUT OF THE RAIL - be ready for it.
When you've removed the rail take it into the back garden and flush it with a hosepipe.
Fix the rail back in position, then open the "fixed" valve by the same number of turns to maintain the system balance. Open the other valve and the rail will fill up ready to be bled.
Rust inhibitor stops this happening but may not be suitable for your boiler. It's easy to add, you just tip 5 litres into your CH header tank. Refresh every 7 years or so.
Close the adjustable valve fully.
With a spanner close the other valve COUNTING THE TURNS ON THE SPANNER.
You can now undo the two valves from the towel rail, leaving them connected to the pipework. YOU WILL HAVE WATER COMING OUT OF THE RAIL - be ready for it.
When you've removed the rail take it into the back garden and flush it with a hosepipe.
Fix the rail back in position, then open the "fixed" valve by the same number of turns to maintain the system balance. Open the other valve and the rail will fill up ready to be bled.
Rust inhibitor stops this happening but may not be suitable for your boiler. It's easy to add, you just tip 5 litres into your CH header tank. Refresh every 7 years or so.
A wise decision if you don't feel confident CW1.
As a next best thing, try melv16's suggestion. Turn off all the other radiators (just the wheel valve will do), open both valves on the towel rail (counting the spanner turns on the fixed valve) and the run the system with the pump on full speed for 10-15 mins. If it is oxide settled at the bottom causing the problem that may clear it. It's free to try it and doesn't require any particular competence. When you've finished don't forget to close down the fixed valve again by the same number of turns as when you opened it to avoid upsetting the balance in the system.
As a next best thing, try melv16's suggestion. Turn off all the other radiators (just the wheel valve will do), open both valves on the towel rail (counting the spanner turns on the fixed valve) and the run the system with the pump on full speed for 10-15 mins. If it is oxide settled at the bottom causing the problem that may clear it. It's free to try it and doesn't require any particular competence. When you've finished don't forget to close down the fixed valve again by the same number of turns as when you opened it to avoid upsetting the balance in the system.
Hi bhg481 (or any plumber :D ),
Tried your suggestion. Took the outside "cover" off (has a screw to hold in place), 1st nut detached after about 3¼ turns, left that off & other rads were turned down. The right hand "up" pipe on the towel rad did warm up but the actual rad didn't. Then I realised there was another nut but I can't move that one without the whole lot moving, & it isn't a standard nut - difficult to explain.
Is that the one that needs to be "opened" 'cos if it is, I can't :(
Tried your suggestion. Took the outside "cover" off (has a screw to hold in place), 1st nut detached after about 3¼ turns, left that off & other rads were turned down. The right hand "up" pipe on the towel rad did warm up but the actual rad didn't. Then I realised there was another nut but I can't move that one without the whole lot moving, & it isn't a standard nut - difficult to explain.
Is that the one that needs to be "opened" 'cos if it is, I can't :(
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