Food & Drink0 min ago
Skirting Board
19 Answers
I've noticed that most timber skirting board fitted in properties has been cut at a 45 degree angle vertically before being butted together. I'm thinking of where a two or more pieces of skirting board are fitted to cover the entire length of a room. Why not cut the boards at a 90 degree angle? Is the fit better if they are cut at 45 degrees or is it that the joining line is less evident or neater? I understand that skirting boards are usually cut vertically in an electric mitre saw so is that of any relevance? Sorry if it sounds a daft question!
Thank you.
Thank you.
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I've seen mostly bullnose skirting cut in the way I described rather than the sophisticated moulding types. Can these more sophisticated mouldings also be cut and fitted in the same way?
Just to clarify, the cutting method seems to be placing the bottom (underside) edge of the skirting on the bed of an electric mitre saw with the back of the board against the stop and then cutting vertically downwards after the chop saw has been set at a 45 degree angle.
Just to clarify, the cutting method seems to be placing the bottom (underside) edge of the skirting on the bed of an electric mitre saw with the back of the board against the stop and then cutting vertically downwards after the chop saw has been set at a 45 degree angle.
"Both ways", I shouldn't attempt that, it just makes it more complicated and for little purpose, and it would make the line of the joint on the face, in fact, longer.
45 degree cuts at 90 degrees top to bottom, is the way.
Btw. all internal joints (in the inner corners) should be 'scribed', not mitred.
45 degree cuts at 90 degrees top to bottom, is the way.
Btw. all internal joints (in the inner corners) should be 'scribed', not mitred.
Sorry but mitring is definitely wrong, whatever some cowboy says on his youtube.
The correct joinery method is to butt one skirting board tight into the corner, fixing it, and then scribe the other to it, this is done by first cutting a mitre on the second board and removing all the wood of the mitre face at 90 degrees.
This is required because when the two boards are fixed to the wall, the is a tendency for them to move away from each other opening the joint, this can't happen with a scribed joint.
The correct joinery method is to butt one skirting board tight into the corner, fixing it, and then scribe the other to it, this is done by first cutting a mitre on the second board and removing all the wood of the mitre face at 90 degrees.
This is required because when the two boards are fixed to the wall, the is a tendency for them to move away from each other opening the joint, this can't happen with a scribed joint.
Should you butt them up against each other you will have a job to hide the joint. When using MDF boards I always cut them at 45 degrees and when overlapping the two surfaces, I superglue the overlap. As others have said .. scribing the internal corners is the best way to ease the problem of not so perfect 90 degree corners.
It's already been said, but I would just like to confirm that joining skirting board for a linear, long run, is best done with a 45 degree cut.
One leading edge, overlapping one back-cut.
Filling and painting is then a much easier job. Even with unpainted (stained) boards, the mitre cut gives you a much finer joint, which is less visible.
There is also the matter of shrinkage. With a butt joint, the boards will separate and show. With a mitre, one simply "slides" behind the other.
One leading edge, overlapping one back-cut.
Filling and painting is then a much easier job. Even with unpainted (stained) boards, the mitre cut gives you a much finer joint, which is less visible.
There is also the matter of shrinkage. With a butt joint, the boards will separate and show. With a mitre, one simply "slides" behind the other.
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