For The Builder

[david small]

Hello. Would a tube of grab adhesive TRex. work for holding screws in sufficiently for supporting a curtain rail?
Grip fix was not available to me. Thank you.

[The Builder]

David... I've not come across that one, but it certainly looks strong enough.

BUT................... a fixing is only as good as the substrate (the surface you're fixing to. Crumbly plaster etc.)

Any chance of using longer screws and fixing right into the meat of the wall?

[bobbinwales]

TRex....yes, Get it on!
The builder may disagree but in my experience it can help to put pieces of wood between the rail and the wall, and screw through both with longer screws and right rawlplug

[The Builder]

Would I argue with you Bobbin?
I'm waiting for David to get back, but yes, I would do exactly that.

Assuming the plaster is sound and it's not wallpapered.
A 2x1 softwood batten glued to the wall. Then a few simple wood screws on the brackets.

I would say though that I would also use a couple of long screws rawlplugged into the wall to really hold the batten.
Curtains can be heavy.

[Togo]

I think I would like to know how big the window is and whether the curtains are made of linen or heavy duty velvet. Can't say that I would *** up my house interior with adhesive gunk.

[Togo]

Haha. ** = #ugger. #=B.

[The Builder]

Gunk Togo?

They've been fixing skirtings etc with grab adhesive for years :o)

[Canary42]

As the builder has said, it all depends on the substrate. Personally (as an accomplished DIYer of 65 years standing), I would never glue to a wall unless it (the wall) was timber, plastic or possibly metal (all unpainted).

Attaching timber battens for curtain rails is certainly a good idea, it being far simpler to attach curtain fittings to timber with screws. But the timber itself IMHO should be firmly attached to the brick/concrete/plaster wall with appropriate plugs and screws.

[Togo]

I know builder. Skirting boards are permanent unless the wall is being removed or re-plastered/boarded. Curtain rails and drapes are mere frippery and subject to the whims of our furnishing advisers( you know who you are ladies). I would never put a curtain holder that cannot be easily removed.

[Togo]

//I would never glue to a wall//

With you there 100% Canary. ... "Unbelievable Jeff".

[david small]

Thank you Builder and others. A batten would have been a more secure solution….but, circumstances dictate a quick fix. Couldn’t even use raw plugs at the time. Apparently 24..48 hours drying time for T Rex…we will see.
Window, 8’x6’ double glazed pvc. House built 1878. Plaster crumbling under surface skim. Curtains on fancy curtain pole with two brackets to support all. Curtains mis weight.

[david small]

Curtains medium weight.

[royfromaus]

Attaching timber battens for curtain rails is certainly a good idea,

_______________________
Nasty and so 1970's

[Togo]

If you have loose plaster "issues" or uneven stone walls sometimes, only sometimes, it may be convenient to use the ceiling joists. Locating them, which way they run, the ceiling height, and getting curtains that have the required drop can be factors but it is an option worth considering.

[david small]

Thanks Togo. But not applicable in this situation. If what I’ve done fails, and it very well might. Batten or fancy block will resolve. I was quite happy with the old fixings, but my good lady wife insisted we modernise the place. Having the curtains, and poles both fall of in two rooms at night when closing them cheered me up no end.

[The Builder]

Ok David. Let's see how it goes.
IF it fails and you need to come back, 1878 will most probably be brick or stone. (Thickness of wall can tell you.) Let us know which.

Also, maybe a link to a picture of the brackets.

[david small]

Builder.T Rex now extinct. If failed miserably. Batten now required. Thanks for you input all.

[Khandro]

Builder's first answer is right. Do you not possess, or can you borrow, an electric drill?

With masonry drill bit, drill a hole, insert a plastic rawlplug & voila!
Cheapest & strongest.

[david small]

Khandro. I’ve drilled, I’ve filled, it all pulled off because of old building, including bricks. I am now getting a man in. Throw money at it, so advised my brother. Enough is enough. Battening awaits.

[Khandro]

david: If the structure you are trying to attach to is so friable, the best way to deal with it is this professional method;

Find a short length (say 6") of pine wood, thicker the better (3"x2" or 3"), with an axe or chisel & hammer split it in 2 directions to arrive at a 'plug' about 1" square with the grain running straight through it. With a sharp chisel or knife taper it to suit the condition of the wall you are trying to fix to, hammer it in until it is tight, saw it off flush with the wall surface & screw into it,
Because the grain is straight you will have no problem with screwing in to it.

[david small]

Thanks again Khandro.