Great ideas chaps, but I think the real answer, laylaylou, is just to turn up at St Peter's Square - if you can squeeze in - and if you can get a hotel room. We were in Rome a few years ago and one morning decided to wander along to have a look at St Peters. The crowds in the streets were vast and we had no idea why, but when we finally struggled our way through and reached the Vatican we found we had stumbled upon the canonization of a saint and St Peter's was closed. The pope was there speaking to the throng - priests were going around giving communion to all and sundry -and I've never seen so many people in one place in my life. We didn't stay long.