Editor's Blog1 min ago
Plumbing / Heating thermostat (Drayton Digistat 1) help req'd!
2 Answers
Earlier today I had to change the batteries in my Drayton Digistat 1 (old version I believe as the warranty sticker inside shows Mar '05) thermostat. As the slide-down battery compartment was stiff I had to remove the unit from the wall to enable me to fit new batteries.
I returned the unit to the wall and all appeared to be OK i.e. the correct room temperature was showing and the change battery indicator was no longer shown. When the room temperature subsequently dropped below the set level the flame indicator lit as normal but the boilder did not alight. I believe that the boiler is working OK as water is still being heated and the fire works (it is a back boiler by the way). It is as if the 'call for heat' is no longer working, but I am no expert in theis arena.
Can anyone offer any suggestions before I am forced to either by a replacement and hope that the fault lies in the original unit, or (more expensively) call in a plumber.
Any help would be much appreciated as the wife and son are complaining about being cold!!!
Thanks,
Adam
I returned the unit to the wall and all appeared to be OK i.e. the correct room temperature was showing and the change battery indicator was no longer shown. When the room temperature subsequently dropped below the set level the flame indicator lit as normal but the boilder did not alight. I believe that the boiler is working OK as water is still being heated and the fire works (it is a back boiler by the way). It is as if the 'call for heat' is no longer working, but I am no expert in theis arena.
Can anyone offer any suggestions before I am forced to either by a replacement and hope that the fault lies in the original unit, or (more expensively) call in a plumber.
Any help would be much appreciated as the wife and son are complaining about being cold!!!
Thanks,
Adam
Answers
Best Answer
No best answer has yet been selected by lukesdad0_4. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.Isn't this unit one where you can remove the body of the controller, leaving the plastic wallplate complete with wiring still attached to the wall? if so, I think your diagnosis is accurate and the problem is caused by a poor connection in the (sprung-loaded?) contacts between the part that you took off and the wallplate - it's the call-for-heat contact that isn't making.
Related Questions
Sorry, we can't find any related questions. Try using the search bar at the top of the page to search for some keywords, or choose a topic and submit your own question.