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Why has my handbrake failed?
I have a Honda Accord 2002 manual Vtec. Two days ago it failed its MOT on the handbrake. The MOT tester said the handbrake had "seized up and needed new calipers". I asked the garage who did the MOT to fix it and they did with new calipers etc and it was re-tested and passed its MOT. However, driving it away and later parking, I thought the handbrake was too loose so I took it back to the same garage and was told by the manager that the handbrake was fine and that it would not have passed its MOT if it wasn't. Back home, I parked the car on our driveway which is on a slope. I reversed the car as usual up the slope and left it in reverse with the handbrake fully on as far as it would go. (This is how we usually park the car so it is easy to get out). This morning as I was strapping my child in the back car seat, my husband got in the back seat and the car started rolling down the slope. I couldn't leave my child as she wasn't strapped in yet, so my husband had to jump in the front seat and put his foot on the brake to stop it rolling into parked cars nearby. It seems it was his weight in the back of the car that started it rolling. I checked the gears and the car was in reverse and the handbrake was fully on but the handbrake did not hold the car from rolling forward. This has never happened before. What should I do please? Any ideas or comments appreciated.
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it can take several days for the new brake linings to bed in (assuming they fitted new pads) and for the handbrake mechanism to adjust up. If it doesnt get better with time I would suggest returning car to garage and confirm with them that the callipers do not need to be manually adjusted on the HB mechanism -on the back of the calliper as some Japanese braking systems have to be be adjusted in this way.
Yes, I did have new brake pads fitted at same time. What I didn't understand is that I have spent �550 getting the handbrake fixed and now it doesn't work. Before the MOT I could park it anywhere and trust it would be fine but now I don't trust it, plus the handbrake has to be pulled up 180 degrees and still doesn't seem to grip. Thanks 'fleebee' for your explanation, it makes sense to me. I am going to take it back a second time and get them to check the calipers.
From handbrake lever down (off) to lock (fully applied you will be looking at 6-9 clicks on the ratchet. (hand brake lever you pull up)
Get the garage to show you the brake force readings when the car failed and after it passed , check this against the vehicle weight on a brake perforance mot chart.
Left wheel brake force + right wheel brake force,then TOTAL is lined up against car weight.
You are saying the brake calipers were changed.The need to run in the brakes does not arise.
Lets say they changed brake pads without changing the brake discs , you then have a possibility of poor brake pad to disc contact thus affecting performance.
Get the garage to show you the brake force readings when the car failed and after it passed , check this against the vehicle weight on a brake perforance mot chart.
Left wheel brake force + right wheel brake force,then TOTAL is lined up against car weight.
You are saying the brake calipers were changed.The need to run in the brakes does not arise.
Lets say they changed brake pads without changing the brake discs , you then have a possibility of poor brake pad to disc contact thus affecting performance.
Hi, I would disagree with the last post of 8-9 clicks on the application of the handbrake, 3-5 should be about right, regards the handbrake, was anything said about handbrake cable stretch? they do have a tendency to do this if the handbrake has been insufficient, regards the way you park that is a very safe way, But! before leaving the car I would have tried the efficiency of the handbrake before leaving it, regards bedding in of the brakes this normally applies to the front brake pads as these are the ones that gets applied first when you apply the foot brake I would take the car back and demand the problem be put right on a point of safety.
If, as you say the handbrake moves through an arc of 180 degrees the top of the handle would be pointing at the carpet in the back of the car
If you left it in reverse gear facing down the slope it would not have rolled forward.
You need to report this incedent to Vosa, telephone number is.....0870 60 60 440
Read the info on the back of your MOT certificate.
If you left it in reverse gear facing down the slope it would not have rolled forward.
You need to report this incedent to Vosa, telephone number is.....0870 60 60 440
Read the info on the back of your MOT certificate.
Just to add my 2pence worth the hand brake only needs to be 16% efficient to pass the MOT i have had a few cars that pass a test but will roll off my drive,
most cars with rear brake disc's tend (in my experiance) to have more travel IE 5 to 8 notches,
was this done at a dealers on a non franchised garage? rear pads may need bedding in were new disc's fitted? if not then hand brake cable may need adjusting as the pads bed in, as for the price i know rear calipers can be exoensive but �550 did the give you an itemised bill?
they definatly need to be sorting this out
most cars with rear brake disc's tend (in my experiance) to have more travel IE 5 to 8 notches,
was this done at a dealers on a non franchised garage? rear pads may need bedding in were new disc's fitted? if not then hand brake cable may need adjusting as the pads bed in, as for the price i know rear calipers can be exoensive but �550 did the give you an itemised bill?
they definatly need to be sorting this out
The work was done at my local Kwik Fit garage and the bill was itemised - �330 for two calipers and the remainder for rear brake pads and fitting. The rear discs were fine. From handbrake down (off) to lock (fully applied) it was 10 clicks on the ratchet and the lever travelled in an arc of 90 degrees so the handle was pointing at the ceiling (my mistake earlier saying 180).
I parked it in reverse gear facing down a slope with the handbrake fully applied (pointing at the ceiling) and the car started rolling when my husband got in the back seat. We both double checked the gears and IT WAS IN REVERSE GEAR with the handbrake fully applied - that is why I was so shocked because I too believed that it shouldn't be able to roll when in gear but it did - hence this post.
I took it back to Kwik Fit and they checked the handbrake, calipers, rear pads and discs and said everything was fine and that the handbrake cable just needed adjusting up which they did. They tested it there on a slope and it seemed to grip, and got me to check it with them. The handbrake lever now locks on 3 clicks and travels in an arc of about 45 degrees (so pointing at the dashboard). The mechanic said the rear pads need to be "bedded in" more and this might take a few weeks. He suggested I not park it on any slopes for a few weeks until this "bedding in" process is done and that the handbrake cable may have to be adjusted again later on. The garage was very helpful and answered all my questions. More importantly, the handbrake now seems to work as it should after this cable adjustment (but I am not trusting it quite yet).
Thanks to everyone who replied to my question - they were all very helpful. Thanks!
I parked it in reverse gear facing down a slope with the handbrake fully applied (pointing at the ceiling) and the car started rolling when my husband got in the back seat. We both double checked the gears and IT WAS IN REVERSE GEAR with the handbrake fully applied - that is why I was so shocked because I too believed that it shouldn't be able to roll when in gear but it did - hence this post.
I took it back to Kwik Fit and they checked the handbrake, calipers, rear pads and discs and said everything was fine and that the handbrake cable just needed adjusting up which they did. They tested it there on a slope and it seemed to grip, and got me to check it with them. The handbrake lever now locks on 3 clicks and travels in an arc of about 45 degrees (so pointing at the dashboard). The mechanic said the rear pads need to be "bedded in" more and this might take a few weeks. He suggested I not park it on any slopes for a few weeks until this "bedding in" process is done and that the handbrake cable may have to be adjusted again later on. The garage was very helpful and answered all my questions. More importantly, the handbrake now seems to work as it should after this cable adjustment (but I am not trusting it quite yet).
Thanks to everyone who replied to my question - they were all very helpful. Thanks!
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