Condensation Problem and Dry Walling?

[Want-to-know]

Six years ago, we had dry walling applied to our bedroom. Beams were placed downward on a wall (it was an end of a block wall and so was detached). The beams were covered by a board. Unfortunately with the recent terrible winter, we have had excessive moisture on the wall, edge of the ceiling above the wall and this has even dripped down and soaked the edge of the carpet. We have double glazing, a de-humidifyer and have tried a lot of different things. We cannot leave our window open all day for ventilation though, as we live in a ground floor flat and in winter, it would be especially cold.

What I would like to know is this. Can one take off the board that is covering the wall and use polystyrne inbetween the beams, so that the room will stay warmer and be less prone to condensation? Also, can one use the same covring board or must one get a new board?

Any advice on this method would be most appreciated. Thanks.

[carlton23]

I`m no DIY person, but i`m wondering, if you take the wallboard off, how will you make the polystyrene stay between the struts that the board is fixed too? They should be vertical and horizontal struts, I believe, then again, I may be wrong.

[Want-to-know]

Never thought about that one. That is why I want feedback. I am hoping I may come across somebody who has had the same problem that I have and has had it sorted. Thanks for your answer anyway. I will be getting a builder to sort out my room eventually, but would like to know more about solutions, so I do not sound like a complete idiot when I offer him the work.

[The Builder]

OK Wanty ........... I guess what you have is "dry-lining", with vertical "battens" fixed to a conc. block wall, then plasterboard and plaster.
Also, it sounds like it's an exterior wall.

If I'm right, it's a very common problem......... comes up on here all the time.
You badly need insulation fitted between the battens (Celotex or Kingspan board or similar.) If 25mm thick battens.........then 25mm insulation. If 50mm battens, then 50mm insulation........ etc etc ............ the thicker the better.
The insulation is just cut to fit snugly between the battens, then it's all plasterboarded and skimmed.
If there's a roofspace above the room, then make sure there is plenty of insulation around the junction of the wall and the ceiling (that's the thermal weak spot.)

Ventilation is essential. If your windows don't have "trickle" vents to give a little background ventilation, then you might want to consider one or two discrete small grills in the ceiling........... vented into the roofspace.

[The Builder]

One important thing I left out ................. thin polythene over the insulation, under the plasterboard for a "vapour check".

[Want-to-know]

Thank you The Builder for your answer. However, I need to clarify something as I have no knowledge of technical terms. Yes the other side of the wall is an exterior wall.

Are that battens, to which you refer, sort of vertical thick Tudor like beams? That is what we have going down the wall but with nothing in between them, just spaceds and they are covered by some kind of board. Yes the area between the top of the wall and the ceiling got soaking wet and dripping.

Can one use the same plasterboard that already has been used, e.g. take it off from infront of the beams and reuse it - or does that make it redundant and I would have to pay for a new plasterboard? I am trying to draw up a sort of tender, so must be reasonably accure on what I require.

Also is polystyrene insulation like celotax and kingsplan that you mention and if not, what is the difference?

Thanks

[The Builder]

I wonder why such thick timber for dry-lining?
No matter ................. fill the spaces between the timbers with insulation. If you have 100mm timber, then you could use 100mm fibreglass loft insulation (the itchy stuff) - that would be effective, and a bit cheaper. Otherwise Celotex at the thickness you can afford.

Thermal efficiency ............. VERY roughly........

4 inches of itchy stuff = 3 inches polystyrene = 1.5 inches Celotex/Kingspan

I hope that makes sense. LoftRoll is good...polystyrene is better ... Foam board is best.

Plasterboard is almost always unusable after removal. Fix new every time.
Use 12.5mm plasterboard.

Coving will also be damaged. Use new again.

[Want-to-know]

Thanks a million for your clarification Builder. It is one thing to find a builder who can do a job, but at least I would like to know what is involved before I hire one,so I can understand the process.

[Want-to-know]

Hi "The Builder",

One more thing please. Do you happen to work in the Romford/East London area? If so, are you available to undertake fixing our bedroom problem? Could you please leave a contact number or email address on this site, if you are interested.

Thanks.

[The Builder]

Well that's very good of you to ask, Wanty. Thanks for that, but nowhere near I'm afraid. In the country outside of Exeter. :o(

On here, I usually suggest that people go along to a nearby Builders Merchants and ask the guys behind the counter, or out in the yard. They'll know the everyone from the big firms to the one man bands........... and their reputations!

[Want-to-know]

Thanks for your response. A great idea what you suggest.