ChatterBank9 mins ago
Airing Cupboard Shelving
I've recently had a new Combi boiler fitted into my airing cupboard. During the fitting, a shelf- like framework that supported an indirect cyclinder that I had used to hold bedding and clothes was removed by the plumbers and discarded. This was because new pipework had to be installed and a condensate pump was sited on the floor.
I've now got hold of a number of lengths of timber each 64mm by 38 mm and 2.5 meters in length - the airing cupboard is 2.4 meters from floor to ceiling. . I'd like to build a framework by using lengths of this timber from floor to ceiling in the form of a square. I'd then like to connect two sides of the framework using battens and place a number of smaller battens along the top of the latter battens to act as shelves.
My difficulty is that I'm not certain how to secure the uprights to the floor and ceiling properly. The ceiling is plasterboard and the floor is tongue and groove planks. I was thinking of screwing angle-brackets
http://www.wickes.co....156728/?source=123_74
to the uprights at the top and bottom and screwing these into the ceiling via suitable plugs and screws and screwing them straight into the floorboard at the other end.
I'm not much good with woodworking joints and I don't have the tools but could anyone come up with any ideas for a girl in distress? The framework can't be too permanent as I may need to remove it if something goes wrong with the boiler so screws seem the best option to me.
Thank you.
I've now got hold of a number of lengths of timber each 64mm by 38 mm and 2.5 meters in length - the airing cupboard is 2.4 meters from floor to ceiling. . I'd like to build a framework by using lengths of this timber from floor to ceiling in the form of a square. I'd then like to connect two sides of the framework using battens and place a number of smaller battens along the top of the latter battens to act as shelves.
My difficulty is that I'm not certain how to secure the uprights to the floor and ceiling properly. The ceiling is plasterboard and the floor is tongue and groove planks. I was thinking of screwing angle-brackets
http://www.wickes.co....156728/?source=123_74
to the uprights at the top and bottom and screwing these into the ceiling via suitable plugs and screws and screwing them straight into the floorboard at the other end.
I'm not much good with woodworking joints and I don't have the tools but could anyone come up with any ideas for a girl in distress? The framework can't be too permanent as I may need to remove it if something goes wrong with the boiler so screws seem the best option to me.
Thank you.
Answers
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-- answer removed --
I put one of these in mine. Not the prettiest of things but sturdy enough not to need fixing to anything.
http://www.diy.com/na...-Shelf-White-10687548
http://www.diy.com/na...-Shelf-White-10687548
-- answer removed --
The combi boiler is slightly to the left of centre attached to the back wall of the airing cupboard. It's mounted on a floor to ceiling panel. the boiler takes up half the depth of the airing cupboard. In addition, there is copper pipe on the LH wall from the rising main going up into the ceiling to a bathroom shower. The RH wall contains the switch and cabling to the boiler.
The house has steel girders on all levels rather than wooden joists, so I suppose I could bolt a batten across the bottom of two girders and screw up into it from underneath. The girders are at right angles to the airing cupboard. Thanks for the tip about screwing into the floor.
Thanks
The house has steel girders on all levels rather than wooden joists, so I suppose I could bolt a batten across the bottom of two girders and screw up into it from underneath. The girders are at right angles to the airing cupboard. Thanks for the tip about screwing into the floor.
Thanks
-- answer removed --
Make up your frame as you want it, Unigirl. Use the "L" brackets in your link to fix it to the ceiling, even if there's no joist available. Use a red Rawlplug (preferably the type with a "lip" that stops it pushing through the plasterboard.
For the floor, pre-drill the 38mm batten so the screw slides in easily. Use a 50mm screw so that you don't go through the floorboard. All easily removeable then.
For the floor, pre-drill the 38mm batten so the screw slides in easily. Use a 50mm screw so that you don't go through the floorboard. All easily removeable then.
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