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My engagement ring bought in 1964 has some engraving inside. It is a solitaire diamond bought from Mappin and Webb in Regent Street. The markings are as follows: HLP PLAT 18CT
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Interesting idea, tambo, but have you ever heard of gold being plated with platinum? Why would anyone, let alone Mappins, want to do that ? The idea of plating in jewellery nowadays is to cover a base metal of no worth with a thin layer of a valuable, attractive, metal to give the impression that the whole piece is of the valuable metal. And why use 18 carat gold, at...
23:00 Sat 01st Jun 2013
I can't find anything about HLP but if you have a minute this website might be able to help
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Platinum is hallmarked by a percentage figure, rather than carat, so is shown as 850 etc to indicate the parts per thousand. This ring is 18 carat gold but the claws, the jaws holding the stone , are platinum. This is standard practice for good stones and good jewellers; Mappin and Webb are certainly that, being a long established and prestigious jewellers.
The reason for the practice is that platinum is a harder metal than 18 carat gold can ever be. To put a worthwhile stone in gold claws risks losing it in wear. If the ring has a gallery; a mount raised up to hold the stone proud of the ring; this may even be in platinum. Galleries are sometimes cut away on one side to accommodate the wedding ring, so it and the engagement ring fit snugly together on the finger. It may be thought desirable to have the gallery of the harder metal.
The reason for the practice is that platinum is a harder metal than 18 carat gold can ever be. To put a worthwhile stone in gold claws risks losing it in wear. If the ring has a gallery; a mount raised up to hold the stone proud of the ring; this may even be in platinum. Galleries are sometimes cut away on one side to accommodate the wedding ring, so it and the engagement ring fit snugly together on the finger. It may be thought desirable to have the gallery of the harder metal.
Interesting idea, tambo, but have you ever heard of gold being plated with platinum? Why would anyone, let alone Mappins, want to do that ? The idea of plating in jewellery nowadays is to cover a base metal of no worth with a thin layer of a valuable, attractive, metal to give the impression that the whole piece is of the valuable metal. And why use 18 carat gold, at the price it was? Or any gold,if it's never going to be seen?
Mappins always traded primarily as retailers. No doubt they still had in house craftsmen in 1964 for big commissions (enormous silver centre pieces, special trophies and the like), but the standard items, like rings, would be made for them. HLP would, in all probability be the maker's mark of one such contractor. The guarantee that the buyer had, when dealing with them or Aspreys, or Tiffany, or Garrards or other big names, was always that the stones would be top grade; no emeralds which were heat treated or oil filled, and no big diamonds which were only of dress quality, for example. That's why an old piece marked with their names always fetches a premium; nobody even thinks to get the loup out !
Mappins always traded primarily as retailers. No doubt they still had in house craftsmen in 1964 for big commissions (enormous silver centre pieces, special trophies and the like), but the standard items, like rings, would be made for them. HLP would, in all probability be the maker's mark of one such contractor. The guarantee that the buyer had, when dealing with them or Aspreys, or Tiffany, or Garrards or other big names, was always that the stones would be top grade; no emeralds which were heat treated or oil filled, and no big diamonds which were only of dress quality, for example. That's why an old piece marked with their names always fetches a premium; nobody even thinks to get the loup out !
1 to 7 of 7
