Roof Tile End Section

[annieigma]

Hi again,

What is the greyish asbestos looking sheet of stuff that sticks out at the end of a run of tiles, where the tiles are cemented to it?? Just removed our existing so we can bond the new roof to it, but will need to fit one at the end of the run.
Hope this makes sense, and does it come in certain lengths and widths and can it be drilled as we are intending ( unless advised otherwise ) to finish with two 6 x 2 joists and not a block or brick wall.
Thanks,
annie.

[BRIGHT SPARK]

Its called the verge undercloak...it supports the filler cement and is a cement based board.

[royfromaus]

Fibre cement soffit strip

[royfromaus]

http://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/pitched-roofing/pitched-roofing-1/non-asbestos-undercloaking-strips-1200-x150-pack-of-10.html

[The Builder]

Scrivs is so cool. Straight in there with the right term. ;o)

Usually 1200mm lengths. Widths: 150, 225 are the main ones.

Easy to drill with a cordless and a masonry bit. Paints well too.

[annieigma]

Ha, thank you all, so i assume its o.k. to screw it to the timber? what amount of overhang would be usual? and when the tiles are rendered is it ordinary ready mixed brick laying cement from wickes or something else?
thanks again,
annie.

[The Builder]

There's no one, single answer to how much they should overhang, Annie. It will depend entirely on how the verge tiling works out.

If you have verge tiles (with one blank end - no interlock), then the tiles will dictate how much they stick out.

It's a matter of luck if the tiles are already laid. If they're not yet laid, then the overhang can be configured. What's usually done is to lay a "dry run" of one course, then see how it works out.

[The Builder]

Forgot to answer .............. if you're nailing or screwing fibre-cement board, drill a 4mm hole first. That stuff is fragile and easily shatters. Also, it'll break under its own weight if not carried properly.

Ordinary sand & cement for "pugging" the ends. If it already has the dye init... so much the better. Don't try to fill in one coat. Stuff a rough coat in first, then, next day, a second coat to finish. Smooth it with a float, then finish with a dry, flat piece of foam (as per a piece of cushion foam.)

[annieigma]

Hi the builder, thanks for all that info, We were having doubts about the tile run, as after measuring, we find that the building is out of square, so there is a 4" difference from top to bottom at the end, so makes it even more difficult to work out the end row of tiles. also, sorry for all the questions, but we are ready to put the sarking on, so, how do we climb over it to proceed up the roof to lay the next run etc. without falling through or damaging it?
Thanks again,
Annie.

[annieigma]

O.K. Forget that question, used the lower battens and worked way up roof, only slight incline, so no problem. installing facia for tile to lean on in the morning, then tiling. weather great here, no rain for the next few days, so all going well.Just a bit concerned about the guy in wickes, i asked for annular ring shanked galv nails for the battens, he said everyone used plain steel nails,75mm.
Seems a bit easy to pull out of the joists???
Annie.