ChatterBank0 min ago
Outside Wood On A House ??
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Dear good AB'ers. Outside wood on a house ? - got a lot of quality supplies already to do this - already so cost not an issue, - just effort . .... But (1) with white painted wood , worth rubbing down to bare wood , then applying wood preserver THEN quality undercoat then gloss or satin. With (2) brown wood ( House Fascia , solid wood fence etc. ) , worth , rubbing down to bare wood , then applying wood preserver THEN wood stain, then varnish ?? Making sure everything is dry thoroughly .. before next coat ! = Important - Plan to use a detail sander, a delta sander and a random orbit sander where applicable and use say 80 , 120 and 220 grit sandpaper to keep it simple - It this a fair plan , so won't have to do the same for a few years ? - any pitfalls to be aware of ? THANK YOU good AB'ers GL.
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.If your white painted wood is in good order, you wouldn't need the preserver. You just need to make sure your Primer/Undercoat and Gloss/Satin are the same base - oil or water-based.
Similar answer with the brown wood. I wouldn't put on a stain then a varnish, unless you use a satin finish, to keep the fence looking dull - do you want a glossy-looking fence? Ronseal are now doing a 10-year woodstain (To replace their 5-year product) - available in Satin only. Adding more coats to your brown wood might darken the finish, so you might want to have a look at the colours and decide from there.
Probably stick with the 120 and 220-grade sandpaper, and the orbit sander on a slow setting, using the detail sander for the difficult bits.
Similar answer with the brown wood. I wouldn't put on a stain then a varnish, unless you use a satin finish, to keep the fence looking dull - do you want a glossy-looking fence? Ronseal are now doing a 10-year woodstain (To replace their 5-year product) - available in Satin only. Adding more coats to your brown wood might darken the finish, so you might want to have a look at the colours and decide from there.
Probably stick with the 120 and 220-grade sandpaper, and the orbit sander on a slow setting, using the detail sander for the difficult bits.
I agree with Stephen. There is no need for preserver. I've had problems with this before. The idea of a primer is to have it soak into the timber to provide a good key for the following coats.
Preservers, in my experience, can be "oily", likely to throw off further paint coats.
I'm going to upset a few people now by saying that I no longer use conventional undercoat/gloss type coatings. There are plenty of great microporous coloured stains available now. One I use often is "Solignum". Dulux/Sadolin have an even greater range of colours.
With Solignum, you just rub down, then put on 2 coats to finish. No primers, undercoats etc. Not even any knotting needed.
https:/ /www.pr omain.c o.uk/ma nufactu rers/so lignum/ archite ctural- water-b ased-op aque.ht ml
Preservers, in my experience, can be "oily", likely to throw off further paint coats.
I'm going to upset a few people now by saying that I no longer use conventional undercoat/gloss type coatings. There are plenty of great microporous coloured stains available now. One I use often is "Solignum". Dulux/Sadolin have an even greater range of colours.
With Solignum, you just rub down, then put on 2 coats to finish. No primers, undercoats etc. Not even any knotting needed.
https:/