Removing a radiator

[Sairwah]

Forgive me for being a bit thick! I need to take a bathroom radiator off the wall so the plasterer can get behind it, but I've no idea where to start! I know that the previous owner flooded the downstairs flat when he attempted it and I don't want that to happen to me! Please help me :o)

[Philtaz]

I'm no expert but this is how I did it when I removed all my radiators for cleaning prior to re-painting. Just to be on the safe side, locate your stopcock(possibly in the kitchen, underneath the sink). Turn it off. Now move on to the radiator. Turn it off at both ends and have a (washing up type) bowl ready at each end of the radiator. Get an adjustable spanner and undo the nuts at both ends of the radiator until they become free. It might work better if you slacken one then completely unscrew the other and free that one. This is where the bowl comes in! Make sure it is underneath the freed end. Once all the water is drained, completely unscrew the other end. Be prepared again with the bowl, just in case. The radiator should now lift slightly, taking the weight off the wall brackets. It should now lift free. When replacing the radiator make sure you have some PTFE tape to wrap around the threads to ensure a tight seal.

[gazzawazza]

Just to add to Philatz's answer, first of all, make sure the rad is cold(!) Then, after turning off at both ends, place an old towel on the floor at one end and then a shallow bowl. Undo the nut at this end first and let it drain. (You don't need to touch the valve at the other end yet).

You can usually move the pipe out of the way to get the bowl in a position to catch the flow of water, and also, if you slacken the bleed valve you'll find that you can speed up or slow down the flow by pressing the bleed valve in or out, (helpful for when you have to empty the bowl).

If you dohave to empty the bowl half way through, just stick the nut back into position to stop the flow.

Now, this is an important bit... When the flow slows down to a trickle, gently lift the rad at the far end to allow the water to drain even more. You can do this without even disconnecting the other end yet. After a minute or so, lower the rad back onto it's bracket and then disconnect the valve at the other end.

Now, an even more important bit... Tighten the bleed screw, and as soon as you lift the rad off from the brackets, turn it upside down so no black sludge drains out over the carpet as you're carrying it out!!!!

I know this is long winded, but I've found this out by bitter experience to be the best way, and no diy book seems to tell you this last point!

One more thing, rads can be heavy so you may need some assistance lifting it if it's big.

[New Forester]

I agree with almost everything Philtaz & Gazzawazza say... If turning the stopcock off, make sure it's the supply to the heating header tank. Alternatively you can tie up the ballvalve in the header tank. In either case remember to turn it on again afterwards! In older houses you may find the radiator does not have a valve on both ends -- or more commonly, you can't get both valves fully shut. In that case you have to drain the system first, then do what they say to catch the remaining water in the rad. To drain the system, turn off the header tank, then put a hose on a spout thing you'll find on one or more of the downstairs pipe runs. Don't forget to turn the boiler off... Of course you only have to get the level below the rad you're moving. If you have to refill, put in some anti-corrosion stuff or your rads will rust away -- but wait until you've checked for leaks, in case you need to drain again. Sometimes you can get away with folding the rad down to the floor. This only works if the connecting pipes have enough vertical movement to allow you to lift the rad off the wall mountings. You just loosen the nuts at either end slightly, unhook from the brackets and hinge carefully forwards (mind out the right-hand one doesn't tighten itself as you fold). Support the weight with something, then tighten the nuts. If this works you'll just get a couple of drips and can leave the radiator full. Don't trip over it though -- if you strain the connecting pipes you'll never get it back again, and you may have a major leak. If you have to remove it altogether, make sure you have the mating surfaces clean when reassembling, and use a little plumber's mate or similar to make a good seal. Don't overtighten the joints -- if they're clean they'll seal easily.