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Copper Pipe Weep - How To Fix

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balloney | 14:56 Fri 18th Dec 2020 | How it Works
23 Answers
There is a weep from the 22mm dia copper pipe and nut below a TF1 Omega filter on the Central Heating return.
The pressure loss in minimal and does get topped up with water.
The cloth at the floor is moist.
What is the cause of the weep and what is the solution ?

With thanks
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British Gas is just too big, Balloney. Go local every time ;o)
15:33 Sun 20th Dec 2020
The first thing to try is to tighten the nut a bit more. You will need a spanner though (adjustable or of the correct size); mole-grips or pliers will be useless
If you tighten the nut a bit, you should hold the filter, or the nut at the top end of the filter, with grips or spanner to ensure that the whole unit doesn't turn with the bottom nut. Don't overtighten, a little nip might be enough to stop the leak.
The water loss will result in fresh water entering the system, albeit slowly, but fresh water has potential to deposit scale (if it is hard) and will also be oxygenated, which is bad for steel (e.g. radiators). Best to stop the leak.
If the water in the system is hard, then I would expect the leak to build up a fine scale deposit, which would likely seal the leak in the process.
By the way, does the copper actually adjoin the nut, i.e. disappear into the nut? If it does, then the nut will need to be tightened towards the filter (clockwise looking along the pipe towards the filter). If what I say doesn't make sense, then either explain or send a pic.
Thanks for the extra advice, Atheist, all good stuff. I've just been looking at the details of the filter: if I've got the right one then the basic filter has 15mm connections which are converted to 22mm through isolation valves on each side of the filter:
https://fernox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2018/01/62249-tf1omegafilter-withvales-003-uk.jpg
Make sure where the water is originating, i.e. not leaking higher up and running down. Make sure you grip the other end of the bit involvd in the tightening - it looks as if you can get a spanner on the valve just above the copper, then tightening the compression nut on the copper won't cause turning higher up the assembly, only the compression joint will tighten. And don't overtighten; if it was me I'd give it an eighth turn, wipe dry and wait. I'd be wary of going past a quarter turn.
I've just looked more closely and I was wrong - the basic filter assembly has 22mm connections, so there probably aren't any isolation valves in balloney's case:
https://fernox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2018/01/62248-tf1omegafilter-slipsocket-001-uk.jpg
However, Atheists advice is still good - use something to hold the casting above the nut whilst tightening the latter
I imagine Balloney will be able to figure things out. I hope someone with more experience will chip in. I tried to explain the usual pitfalls, but I might have forgotten some bits of useful advice.
If B has a go he might get it all sorted in 5 minutes.
Good luck, B. Feedback would be appreciated when you've done it.
Unscrew it and stick some PTFE tape on the thread. tighten it back up.
Zacs, yes, but that involves draining the system or somehow isolating the relevant section of pipework. I think nipping up the compression joint is the best way to start.
Zace. it's not the thread that's the issue, it's the olive.
Agreed Atheist. Even though I scrupulously clean up the olive, pipe, etc., with wire wool, when assembling such joints I usually apply a thin coating of plumber's mait around the olive to deal with any imperfections. It shouldn't be necessary, but better safe than sorry I say!
Etch, I like Fernox leak sealer (not sure what the proper name is) which is a transparent silicone sort of goo which is less messy than the old stuff (although the tube once opened goes off fairly quickly.)
Bu the old stuff I mean Boss White.
Where's the bloody Builder to stamp his imprimatur?!?
He was last heard of when called to an emergency in the landlady's bedroom. I believe the handle has come off the door and he is likely to be trapped there for days.
Atheist you are thinking of LSX a clear silicone sealer.
Ahaaaa.............. no such luck with the lady's bedroom ;o(

I've seen it done by just unscrewing the backnut and packing it with "Boss White" or similar. Then nipping it back up.

It's a matter of luck though. I must admit that I learned a long time ago that you may just as well part-drain the system. That is, drain just enough to get the level below the offending joint. Easy with a combi in a bungalow, but takes a bit longer with rads upstairs.

Anyway... drain, pull the pipe out of the joint, wrap 3 or 4 turns of ptfe tape around the olive............. and put it back together.
I just wish people would fit more isolating valves in systems. Saves a lot of hassle.

Having said all that... I would also give it a nip up first. It often works :o)
Question Author
Thanks for all the words of wisdom Guys.
Nipping the nut has had no effect.
Draining the system partly is something I am not keen to undertake.
I have got a tube of Fernox LS -X and applied and bound with flexible tape.
It has been weeping at the back of the pipe close to the wall, nimble fingers are needed - my fingers are not nimble anymore.
I shall persevere and give you an update.
B; a plumber/heating engineer should be able to sort it out if you're wary of going further yourself. Prob take him/her ten minutes, but it'll cost you. If you can afford it, I suggest you take that route.
What boiler do you have? Is it a combi? Do you have a sealed system? How many storeys is your house (i.e. how much height above the boiler)?
Question Author
Atheist, the boiler is a Worcester Greenstar i erp a sealed system.
Installed 3 years ago by British Gas.
The location of the boiler is in the bathroom on the second floor.
Over 2 feet clearance from top of boiler to the ceiling.

Would British Gas be more expensive than a local gas/plumbing engineer?

Bye the way this boiler is at my elderly mothers house.

British Gas is just too big, Balloney.
Go local every time ;o)

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