ChatterBank3 mins ago
Breakdown...again!
41 Answers
My Ford Fiesta broke down last night and the AA chap said that it was a flat battery. After I told him that this seems to happen once a year during the winter he ran a diagnostic and it appear my car has faulty codes which are not communicating with each other.
Not sure whether to take it to a Ford garage or just a regular repair garage. Any advice on which is best?
Cheers
Not sure whether to take it to a Ford garage or just a regular repair garage. Any advice on which is best?
Cheers
Answers
Best Answer
No best answer has yet been selected by tiggerblue10. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.How could it be a flat battery if the engine was being cranked?
Perhaps you flattened the battery by repeatedly trying to start the car – and it was flat by the time the AA man arrived – but that was not the reason it would not start initially.
The problem could be the CPU (the car’s computer system), or it might be something as simple a damp effecting the vehicle electrics. Although the car will not be using a high tension spark distribution system; damp starting problems are much reduced from years gone by.
Nevertheless it would be worth giving all electrical wiring under the bonnet a spray with WD40 (or similar) – but make sure you keep the spray well away from any timing belts that might be exposed.
The next time this happens, rather than continually cranking the engine, flattening the battery, switch the ignition off for a couple of minutes to give the CPU time to reset its brain.
I would also have the spark plug gaps checked, which could cause this issue if incorrect.
Perhaps you flattened the battery by repeatedly trying to start the car – and it was flat by the time the AA man arrived – but that was not the reason it would not start initially.
The problem could be the CPU (the car’s computer system), or it might be something as simple a damp effecting the vehicle electrics. Although the car will not be using a high tension spark distribution system; damp starting problems are much reduced from years gone by.
Nevertheless it would be worth giving all electrical wiring under the bonnet a spray with WD40 (or similar) – but make sure you keep the spray well away from any timing belts that might be exposed.
The next time this happens, rather than continually cranking the engine, flattening the battery, switch the ignition off for a couple of minutes to give the CPU time to reset its brain.
I would also have the spark plug gaps checked, which could cause this issue if incorrect.
Buy one of these and leave it plugged into the cigar lighter socket.
http:// www.eba y.co.uk /itm/LE D-CAR-V AN-12v- 24v-BAT TERY-VO LT-VOLT AGE-MET ER-MONI TOR-GAU GE-CIGA R-LIGHT ER-PL-S M/29230 5124007 ?epid=6 7733899 3&h ash=ite m440ebe 3aa7:g: --MAAOS wDNdVoz Ai
With the engine running it should read close to 14V (not 12V).
It will help identify if you have a battery charging issue.
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With the engine running it should read close to 14V (not 12V).
It will help identify if you have a battery charging issue.
Interestingly you mention that the ABS light came on and the brake pedal remained depressed.
If otherwise the car braking system now works fine – then this might very well indicate that there is some intermittent fault with the CPU, causing the issues.
Unfortunately a garage investigation/fix for such a fault will not be cheap – which could include replacement of the CPU.
Given the age of the car – I would consider getting rid of it, if such inconvenient breakdowns are unacceptable to you.
If otherwise the car braking system now works fine – then this might very well indicate that there is some intermittent fault with the CPU, causing the issues.
Unfortunately a garage investigation/fix for such a fault will not be cheap – which could include replacement of the CPU.
Given the age of the car – I would consider getting rid of it, if such inconvenient breakdowns are unacceptable to you.
I am no expert, but I think the ABS light staying on for a while is irrelevant. As long as it goes out after a while, the system has self checked and confirmed it is OK.
The brake pedal staying down is odd and worrying, but not likely to be linked to the starting problem.
I reiterate my view that you should just put a battery charger on regularly, if it is possible.
Difficult as it may be, start thinking about replacing the car rather than spending on this one
The brake pedal staying down is odd and worrying, but not likely to be linked to the starting problem.
I reiterate my view that you should just put a battery charger on regularly, if it is possible.
Difficult as it may be, start thinking about replacing the car rather than spending on this one
I used to drive an 02 Fiesta, the engine management light was always on, it was a faulty sensor! Is it an old battery? Also Ford's are liable to rust so could it be a contact issue - I always used to spray under the bonnet with GT85 & my other half even started my car by spraying all the contacts but in the end I got another car cos the rust was too much :(