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Carpenters Hand Saws
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When using the above, how reliable are the 45 degree and 90 degree angles created in the plastic handle moulding? Are they good enough for general woodworking or is a carpenters square or combination square still needed? I'm thinking here of the full sized 20 inch or 22 inch hand saws.
I know when I was taking woodwork in school, the teacher forbade us from using the saw handle moulding to make the angles, insisting we use a carpenters or combination square as appropriate. Mind you, saw handles were made of wood in those days!
Thank you.
I know when I was taking woodwork in school, the teacher forbade us from using the saw handle moulding to make the angles, insisting we use a carpenters or combination square as appropriate. Mind you, saw handles were made of wood in those days!
Thank you.
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For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.No skilled joiner or cabinet maker of yore could rely on a hand saw-cut mitre for the absolute accuracy available now through machinery. After marking, the cut was first made usually by a tenon saw and finished with what was called a shooting block; a wooden jig in which a plane was slid backwards and forwards in a rebate against the joint surface.
In ordinary softwood carpentry, straight from the saw would suffice, as the joint, as on an architrave, would be painted over.
In ordinary softwood carpentry, straight from the saw would suffice, as the joint, as on an architrave, would be painted over.
Since no one else has said it, this is how you can check any 90 degree foe accuracy. Apologies if you knew. Find a straight edged table or similar. Put the handle of the saw up against the edge, draw or scribe along the black of the blade [I know, I know, it's not my table, or bench], now flip the saw over such that the back of the blade is on the line you have made. If they line up....you have 90 degrees. Any deviation from 90 degrees, they won't line up.
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