News0 min ago
Bathroom Light Pull
Hi
I have purchaced a new bathroom pull switch. It is the sort that dims. (Dimpull) I have wired it up but it does not work. There is Live in and Neutral in and the other side is Load live & neutral. My home wiring only has the 1 live & neutral so how am I supposed to wire the other side up ?
Your help would be greatfully appriciated.
Thanks
I have purchaced a new bathroom pull switch. It is the sort that dims. (Dimpull) I have wired it up but it does not work. There is Live in and Neutral in and the other side is Load live & neutral. My home wiring only has the 1 live & neutral so how am I supposed to wire the other side up ?
Your help would be greatfully appriciated.
Thanks
Answers
Best Answer
No best answer has yet been selected by lincslee. Once a best answer has been selected, it will be shown here.
For more on marking an answer as the "Best Answer", please visit our FAQ.If your original switch was simply on/off you may well only have a live feed to the switch which is either connected to the lamp (on) or disconnected(off)
To use a dimmer switch it requires its own supply - labelled live & neutral in.then you would connect the two "out" side terminals to the lamp holder.
If the original switch was 2 pole it would have had the connections necessary. Without a fairly simple( to an electrician) bit of rewiring its doutbful you are going to do it yourself.
To use a dimmer switch it requires its own supply - labelled live & neutral in.then you would connect the two "out" side terminals to the lamp holder.
If the original switch was 2 pole it would have had the connections necessary. Without a fairly simple( to an electrician) bit of rewiring its doutbful you are going to do it yourself.
This Dimpull device appears to require a cable direct from the CU, so that you break both the L and N wires, then reconnect the LOAD side with a cable running to the light.
Most modern UK lighting circuits are not like that, having the cabling from the CU looping around each of the ceiling roses in turn. A single cable then runs down to the switch. This cable breaks the L feed only, which is why the return feed from the switch conventionally has a BROWN sleeving on the BLUE wire (it is called a switching live). The Neutrals are all connected together (but your device appears to require this connection to the lighting load to be broken).
It this information now gives you enough information to know what you do then go ahead - if it doesn't you really need practical help on site from someone.
Most modern UK lighting circuits are not like that, having the cabling from the CU looping around each of the ceiling roses in turn. A single cable then runs down to the switch. This cable breaks the L feed only, which is why the return feed from the switch conventionally has a BROWN sleeving on the BLUE wire (it is called a switching live). The Neutrals are all connected together (but your device appears to require this connection to the lighting load to be broken).
It this information now gives you enough information to know what you do then go ahead - if it doesn't you really need practical help on site from someone.
-- answer removed --
Hi,
Sorry to hijack the OP's thread, but thought it was on the same subject, so would be beneficial to both of us!
I am currently renovating my bathroom and have one of these Dimpull switches. I have attempted to wire it up and just wanted to check with some more knowledgeable people that what I have done is correct...
So, to the dimpull I have the circuit feed (L & N) and out the other side, I have the switched live and N going to a junction box where various spurs head out to the lights. One of the spurs goes to another junction box that has the 3C & E cable from the fan going to it. I have connected the N from the dimpull (via the previous junction box) to the N of the fan and the switched L of the dimpull (via the previous junction box) to the switched live of the fan. To connect the L of the fan, I have taken a single core & E cable feed from the circuit before it enters the dimpull.
This appears to have the desired effect, but I just wanted to make sure that I hadn't overcomplicated things or missed something!
Cheers
Tim
PS. On a side note, I am using LV dimmable spots. In the blurb it says that when used with LV, the max wattage is 175. Does this therefore mean I can only have 3 spots running off that switch?
Sorry to hijack the OP's thread, but thought it was on the same subject, so would be beneficial to both of us!
I am currently renovating my bathroom and have one of these Dimpull switches. I have attempted to wire it up and just wanted to check with some more knowledgeable people that what I have done is correct...
So, to the dimpull I have the circuit feed (L & N) and out the other side, I have the switched live and N going to a junction box where various spurs head out to the lights. One of the spurs goes to another junction box that has the 3C & E cable from the fan going to it. I have connected the N from the dimpull (via the previous junction box) to the N of the fan and the switched L of the dimpull (via the previous junction box) to the switched live of the fan. To connect the L of the fan, I have taken a single core & E cable feed from the circuit before it enters the dimpull.
This appears to have the desired effect, but I just wanted to make sure that I hadn't overcomplicated things or missed something!
Cheers
Tim
PS. On a side note, I am using LV dimmable spots. In the blurb it says that when used with LV, the max wattage is 175. Does this therefore mean I can only have 3 spots running off that switch?