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Removing Tiles In My Shower
4 Answers
My shower has been leaking into the cupboard on the floor below. A plumber came round and said that the water was getting behind some of the tiles and they need be taken off, let the plaster dry, then replace and re-grout the tiles. I would like to try to do this myself, but would appreciate some advice. I'm worried I might break the tiles as I try to take them off the wall, or they will just fall off and break as soon as I get one off! Any advice would be welcome! TIA
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3rd paragraph on explains what nightmares can happen
Hi crapmemory
My advice is get it done properly by an expert tiler otherwise you will almost certainly get a problem later on and in short time too.
I have sent a link of what can hapoen if water damaged tiles are not repaired correctly.
Better to spend perhaps a hundred pounds then do it yourself and spend a fortune later if mould and water gets in more areas.
Good luck crapmemory
3rd paragraph on explains what nightmares can happen
Hi crapmemory
My advice is get it done properly by an expert tiler otherwise you will almost certainly get a problem later on and in short time too.
I have sent a link of what can hapoen if water damaged tiles are not repaired correctly.
Better to spend perhaps a hundred pounds then do it yourself and spend a fortune later if mould and water gets in more areas.
Good luck crapmemory
Crappers, you wouldn't believe how many floor voids are quietly rotting away out there with this problem.
The "secret" is to get it as watertight as possible BEFORE the tiles go on. It's Ok to let the tiles/grout do all the work, but they're vulnerable to the odd crack/gap in grouting etc. Then the whole thing fails.
I like the "L" shaped type of tile trim. One leg goes up the wall. The other then drapes down over the tray. A good bead of silicone in the joint between the wall and the tray first ...... then the tile trim.
Tile down over that, and finish with a neat silicone bead along the bottom of the tiles.
Also, the most vulnerable area... a silicone bead vertically in the corners,
The "secret" is to get it as watertight as possible BEFORE the tiles go on. It's Ok to let the tiles/grout do all the work, but they're vulnerable to the odd crack/gap in grouting etc. Then the whole thing fails.
I like the "L" shaped type of tile trim. One leg goes up the wall. The other then drapes down over the tray. A good bead of silicone in the joint between the wall and the tray first ...... then the tile trim.
Tile down over that, and finish with a neat silicone bead along the bottom of the tiles.
Also, the most vulnerable area... a silicone bead vertically in the corners,