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Professional Pruning

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horseshoes | 15:24 Sun 01st Jun 2014 | Gardening
8 Answers
We have a 10-12 foot tall acer in our garden which, although very beautiful, is getting quite overpowering, especially as it's in the middle of the lawn. OH nor I would have any idea on how to go about pruning it properly. I've just been into the "inside" of it and there are a lot of thin branches/twigs which are obviously dead! Then there a lot of long branches with leaves just near the ends, so it looks as if I lopped them, we'd be left with bare branches. I'm thinking we should get a proper person to do the pruning. I'd hate to kill it. What do you think? Also, any idea of what it might cost? Thank you.
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A lovely looking Japanese acer!
I would recommend getting a few quotes from qualified professionals.

If it was mine, I'd clean out the dead wood and lift the crown, you could maybe then put the chair under the tree canopy and have a nice shady spot out of the midday sun.
Don't do it till Jan/Feb time when it will be dormant. Acers can bleed horribly if you prune them while they're growing. If it's very precious to you then I'd get a man in, you don't want to kill it or ruin it's shape.
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Thanks both. I did look at one of those eHow videos (very good for some things), but decided there's too much I could do wrong, so I am going to get professional help if I can afford it. I quite fancy the idea of lifting the canopy too, especially as OH complains about mowing underneath it! Mind you, it's mostly moss rather than grass, so perhaps that will improve too.
Hi Horseshoes,
It doesn't look like a mammoth job and hopefully shouldn't cost too much, access to and from the site will also be taken in to consideration.

Good luck...Chip.
What a gorgeous Acer, lucky you.

You may well have looked at this and if so I apologise for posting it but the following is from the RHS website and may help.

"Pruning and training
Acer palmatum is best pruned when fully dormant (November to early February), as maples bleed sap from pruning cuts at other times, weakening the tree. However, pruning is still best kept to a minimum as the most graceful shape comes from a tree that has been allowed to develop fairly naturally. As a result, just remove badly-placed or crossing shoots to encourage a good framework of branches to form.

Where you do need to reduce height and width, follow long branches back to a side branch and pruning it out at this point. This is not necessary on prostrate-growing trees because they should be allowed to spread naturally to gain the best effect."

Good luck.
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I'd love to just leave it be, but quite honestly it does dominate the garden which isn't that big. I probably shouldn't have chosen one which grew so big!! Big thank you for ALL your replies. x
At the risk of stating the obvious, I think where you went wrong was not pruning it years ago and keeping it in check. You've helped me make a decision about whether to keep mine in pots or to put in the ground horseshoes, thank you for that:-)

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