That's What You Call A Near Miss!
ChatterBank1 min ago
Plum Tomatoes.
I have grown some plum tomato plants from seed in my greenhouse and are now about 12" tall and have quite a few flower heads starting to develop. But the plant seems to have stopped growing and the tomato leaves are starting to turn purple, especially the veins under the leaves. I showed this to a friend who knows a bit more about gardening than me (which wouldn't be difficult) and he thought it might be over watering or maybe frost damage and the best thing to do would be to pull them up and start again. Is he right ?. Thank you.
Answers
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Well done on getting flowers on the tomatoes already, but I feel that this is your problem. You are possibly about a month or so ahead of the season. Here on the south east coast I have got mine well established having hardened them off weeks ago. We have been experiencing wild temperature fluctuations (|I bet you have to) from below freezing in the morning to...
19:05 Thu 07th May 2015
It sounds like they have been affected by a drop in temperature, which is probably only a minor/ temporary set-back and hopefully they will soon grow out of it.
I wouldn't "pull em up and start again" but give them a chance to pull through, watch the temps and water them regularly enough to keep the roots moist.
I wouldn't "pull em up and start again" but give them a chance to pull through, watch the temps and water them regularly enough to keep the roots moist.
Hi Zabado
Found this info, hope it helps.
Tomatoes suffering from phosphorus deficiency exhibit symptoms such leaves showing purple veins or with an overall purple color. Other symptoms include a bronze coloring of leaves and a red color along vein margins. Managing this problem requires adding phosphorus to the soil. This is done by adding bone meal to the soil or using Epsom salt (the magnesium helps soak up the phosphorus) as a foliar spray.
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Cheers
Found this info, hope it helps.
Tomatoes suffering from phosphorus deficiency exhibit symptoms such leaves showing purple veins or with an overall purple color. Other symptoms include a bronze coloring of leaves and a red color along vein margins. Managing this problem requires adding phosphorus to the soil. This is done by adding bone meal to the soil or using Epsom salt (the magnesium helps soak up the phosphorus) as a foliar spray.
http://
Cheers
To add to the info from Xeronema.
It's not unusual for soils (potting mix) to vary between acidic and alkali especially if the plant has been growing in the same mixture for a while.
Testing would not hurt.
As Chipchopper also says temperature can also be a culprit.
Good luck, nothing quite like a good crop of tomatoes to chow down on.
It's not unusual for soils (potting mix) to vary between acidic and alkali especially if the plant has been growing in the same mixture for a while.
Testing would not hurt.
As Chipchopper also says temperature can also be a culprit.
Good luck, nothing quite like a good crop of tomatoes to chow down on.
Well done on getting flowers on the tomatoes already, but I feel that this is your problem. You are possibly about a month or so ahead of the season.
Here on the south east coast I have got mine well established having hardened them off weeks ago. We have been experiencing wild temperature fluctuations (|I bet you have to) from below freezing in the morning to 107f during the day in my polytunnel.
My bet is the change in temperature has caused the purpling. Tomato plants prefer warm weather and should not be planted outdoors until the temperature remains at a steady 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting tomatoes outdoors too early or in a greenhouse that is too cool can cause the leaves of young plants to turn purple. Even if the daytime temperatures are warm in spring, the nights may be too cool for tomatoes and this change in temperature can cause the leaves to curl and turn purple. This is generally a short-term problem, but it can slow the tomato plant's growth.
As a belt and braces approach I have held some tomatoes back ..
(they are under fleece in the tunnel).. and not planted all of mine, just in case I get caught out by the frost/cold. I must have about 200 seedlings in a tray and am giving them away to anyone who wants them.
It's difficult to give things away, only this afternoon I filled a tray with 8 large stripey stuffers to give to a neighbour at the allotment. When I returned, my tray was still full with items that he had given me.
Here on the south east coast I have got mine well established having hardened them off weeks ago. We have been experiencing wild temperature fluctuations (|I bet you have to) from below freezing in the morning to 107f during the day in my polytunnel.
My bet is the change in temperature has caused the purpling. Tomato plants prefer warm weather and should not be planted outdoors until the temperature remains at a steady 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Planting tomatoes outdoors too early or in a greenhouse that is too cool can cause the leaves of young plants to turn purple. Even if the daytime temperatures are warm in spring, the nights may be too cool for tomatoes and this change in temperature can cause the leaves to curl and turn purple. This is generally a short-term problem, but it can slow the tomato plant's growth.
As a belt and braces approach I have held some tomatoes back ..
(they are under fleece in the tunnel).. and not planted all of mine, just in case I get caught out by the frost/cold. I must have about 200 seedlings in a tray and am giving them away to anyone who wants them.
It's difficult to give things away, only this afternoon I filled a tray with 8 large stripey stuffers to give to a neighbour at the allotment. When I returned, my tray was still full with items that he had given me.
I think alavahalf has hit the nail on the head. I planted the seeds in a seed tray around early March and left them in our sun lounge which has a couple of central heating radiators. Then a few weeks later when they were five or six inches tall I put them in larger pots and put them in my greenhouse which doesn't have heating. Iv'e just recently retired and this is my first year of gardening, so as they say you learn by your mistakes and I have. Thanks to all of you who took the time to reply to a brand new gardener.
Why not do the same again and get some more on the go from seed. It's better to be a bit late with your seeds, than too early, they usually catch up.
One more tip that will help with next years efforts is keep a diary ( now ) of when you start all your seeds, beans, spuds etc. If you are like me you will have forgotten by next year. I don't keep a diary myself, but I know someone who does.
My saviour is a retired teacher who is a fellow allotment holder.
Now he keeps lists of every detail of what, when and where every seed was sown, potted, re-potted and planted out ! All I do is copy him a week or so later .. I know it's cheating, but who cares. He needs organisation and control in his life, whereas I just need an easy life !
One more tip that will help with next years efforts is keep a diary ( now ) of when you start all your seeds, beans, spuds etc. If you are like me you will have forgotten by next year. I don't keep a diary myself, but I know someone who does.
My saviour is a retired teacher who is a fellow allotment holder.
Now he keeps lists of every detail of what, when and where every seed was sown, potted, re-potted and planted out ! All I do is copy him a week or so later .. I know it's cheating, but who cares. He needs organisation and control in his life, whereas I just need an easy life !
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