Clematis

[Prudie]

I have a clematis that is a single narrow bare stem of 8 feet before it branches into leaf and flower. Is there a way I can make it sprout more from the lower stem. I feel that if I cut it off at the woody section it won't regrow.

[boxtops]

I think you need to wait until it has finished flowering now, Prudie, then have a look at taking it back. We have two clematis but we just let them get on with it, so I can't suggest when is the proper time to prune.

[AlBags]

It's ok to cut back clematis if they are just shooting. Will just delay a bit.
Unfortunately, although clematis are typically "cold feet, warm head" they will keep trying to flower as high up as they can.
Is it a standard hybrid, Prudie? .. or alpine .. or macropetala var.?

[Prudie]

It's a standard Type 2.It flowers quite well but only high up wrapped round a tree. The main stem is planted about 2 feet from the base of the tree and just flops about precariously for the first 4 feet. There is no sign of any shoots on the first 8 feet of it,

[Clanad]

Hol dit...HOL DIT! If your clematis is a Group 2, as you indicate...don't prune it! Group 2's always bloom on old wood. If you prune the old wood... exactomatic! No blooms... There are actually 2 sub groups to this 'family' of clematis... the only difference being that 2a blooms in the spring and then again in the fall whereas 2b blooms in the spring and the intemittently thorughout the summer.

Clematis are hardy and difficult to kill off .... out winters here in the western U.S. regularly reach low temperatures of -25 degrees F and still all three varitals flourish.

By the way... if you'll wait until the fall and the plant has stopped blooming, you could cut it back then, but don't expect much next spring, but the benefit will be blooms lower on the stem each succeeding spring and summer...

Best of luck!

[AlBags]

Correct , but not all type 2 will only flower once ; )
Sounds like the problem is light, however. You may always have a problem with lack of growth low down and staggly stems near the base.
I take it it's not a vigorous grower then?
Where it normally shoots out/flowers is a particularly sunny part in the tree?

[Prudie]

It's against a north facing fence (I didn;t plant it) and it only flowers in the area that has reached up the tree so yes gets the sun up there. Point is there are no basal stemS just one main one.

[AlBags]

N facing? I don't think you can do much for it : (
That's why it grows out so straggly I expect.

[Prudie]

Mmmm maybe i'll move it and trim it in the Autumn. What's the worst that can happen,

[foxyferret]

I have loads of clematis, some in pots, some in the garden. A couple of group 3 but mostly group 2. Once they have finished flowering, I leave them overwinter as they are. OK, they look dead and straggly but then it is easy to see the new buds which start to develop in spring. Late Feb early March, prune them back lightly. Find a nice fat pair of buds and cut them to just above that bud. It is only group 3 clematis which require harder pruning. You need to feed them when they are growing with Tomorite or Phostrogen to encourage flowering, until they bud and flower, then stop feeding. In Autumn, a good mulch of well rotted manure or general fertiliser to the ground around the root. Mine seem to thrive on this treatment and all have lots of fat flower buds ready to pop open even as I type. I also agree with Albags that it probably needs more light. Good luck, they are lovely climbers

[rowanwitch]

Why not plant something else at the base to fill the gap... Morning gloriy in a complementary colour, or sweet peas. I almost always have two climbers together double interest same space

[Prudie]

Trouble is rowan it's against a solid north fence between a eucalyptus and a conifer (both of which I hate) so that area of bed never gets sun at all, don't think morning glory, which i grow every year, or sweet peas will survive there.

[AlBags]

Hydrangea Petiolaris
Robinia Rubrifolia


If you move it, dig a big a rootball as you can. Older ones can still die of clematis wilt quite easily.

[AlBags]

oh... don't forget .. plant deep. At least as deep as was growing previously.

[Prudie]

Obviously yet more of your talents AlBags

[julia-mag]

Hi prudie, Must say I also have clematis (that links partly through my Wisteria) and that had very tenuous sickly stem of about 7/8 foot before great flowering stems and I mistakenly one year broke the stem when it was 'sleeping' (thinking it was a weed) and guiltily hid the evidence.... Now to my surprise I have 4 lovely shoots up and all in bud (about 8ft high), so acording to everyone else I am an expert gardener!!! I wonder if this is what they mean by Get your enemies to prune for you?

[Prudie]

Hi Julia, accidentally breaking the main stem was something I was worrying about but coincidentally with your post last year I did exactly that to another clematis at ground level when weeding in hurry. Not an hour ago I was in the garden and thought 'what's that?' and am pleased to say it has about 6 shoots all coming from the ground where I broke it!

[julia-mag]

Oh Prudie, To-gether we must re-write the gardening books method of pruning!

[AlBags]

no .. I'm Prudie's man
.. and I certainly never suffered from Clematis wilt : )

[Prudie]

Well I'm afraid I've had a massive knock-back because you think I'm too old Albags - gutted and hurt to say the least so maybe Julia and I should stick together

[AlBags]

Increase the soil depth a bit around those shoots Prudie ... will help and improve root structure.