Draining A Clutch System

[sherrardk]

Asking on behalf of himself - how do you drain a clutch system when you can't bleed it because the fluid is so filthy? Thanks.

[BRIGHT SPARK]

Did the clutch work before?

[jumberly]

Yeah......slight give in it, that's why I thought I'd bleed it and change the fluid while I was at it.....Big mistake lol.

[TWR]

jumberly, If the area at the Bulkhead ( Where the Clutch Pedal goes through the body is dry) then the master Cylinder is ok, I take it the clutch was NOT LOOSING FLUID? It was the case that you thought you would change the fluid because it looked dirty / murky? the only thing that can cause that is if the Seals start to perish & bit start to dislodge inside, but you would feel that with the clutch pedal, you may have to get the Fluid Pressured through the system, But normally it can be done by foot control only, when bleeding one person in the van, the other on the Bleed Niple giving instructions, Open bleeder, Foot down, close bleeder, foot UP, fOOT DOWN SLOWLY, close bleeder, foot up & repeat until you have foot pressure.

[jumberly]

It'll have a go tomorrow.......get the wife involved.

And I'll let you know what happens!

Thanks for the advice....really appreciate it.

[chas2008]

unless you have an auto bleed system you need 2 people to do it, how have you been trying to bleed it ? by yourself ?

[chas2008]

dont want to panic you but a quick 'google' comes up as it needs pressure bleeding not quite so straightforward.

http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/index.php?threads/how-to-bleed-vivaro-clutch-2005.287340/

1. Make sure there is fluid in brake/clutch reservoir. With pedal at top position.
2. Connect a compressor to bleed nipple on clutch. I found that 20psi worked. In the pipe from compressor to bleed nipple add an air tight pot which has brake fluid in.
3. Turn on air and open bleed nipple until air comes back up through main res then close nipple.
4. If pressure is felt at pedal it should work now. Do not try to bleed normally now as you loose pressure and have to do it all again.

[chas2008]

basically trying to do it the usual way is wrong !!

[jumberly]

Thanks for that.....


Now....All I need is a compressor, I'll hire one!

Cheers

Dave

[TWR]

You do not need a Compressor, use a spare wheel with a pipe attached.

[chas2008]

bleeding vehicles is not always straight forward like the old days, many modern vehicles are actually bled using the diagnostic equipment/lap top..all done electronically..

You shouldnt need to hire a compressor if you were going down that route you might as well pay a local mobile mechanic to do it for you.
TYre pump should do..or as said air from the spare wheel.

[jumberly]

OK....

First I used a big syringe with tubing to the bleed nipple....ended up with a face full of Dot4 fluid....nasty.

So...I went to Halfords and bought (£19.99) a Gunson Eazibleed! Basicaly it's a bottle of fluid that you connect to the reservoir via a pipe and sealed lid and another tube goes to your tyre (or spare) and pressurizes the system. Seems an excellent idea. BUT...it didn't work. So...I adapted the eezibleed and connected it to the bleed nipple socket....didn't work (my drive is now soaked in Dot4 fluid. Just couldn't get a tight seal.

So I removed the Master cylinder behind the clutch peddle and its knackered - won't pump. It has two connections - the top one comes from the reservoir (input) and the second (output) goes to the slave cylinder. After I took it off I tested it in a bowl of fluid....it sucks in from the input and then pushes fluid back through the input....nothing comes out of the output, if you see what I mean. So hopefully I'll get a new one.

Thank you for all of your advice....no wonder my wife is always on this site - really appreciate your help.

[BRIGHT SPARK]

.....its not good is it?

[jumberly]

Well...it's not good...but I now know what to fix....so that's good lol

[TWR]

jumberly, You are wasting your money, you said yesterday that there was nothing wrong with the Clutch prior to your cleaning it out, I would check the internal seals, clean, add a bit of vasoline to the bores, check the seals on the piston, then return the piston into the Master, if the master was faulty it would have shown by being wet on the face of the Servo, you said it did not show any wetness, replace the unit, take your time inserting the pipes add a little copper grease, be carefull as you can cross thread them as easy as cutting butter, once reconnected top up the Master "NOT TO THE TOP" put the cap back on to stop air getting in, then with help undo the bleed niple & bleed, each time you de-press, CLOSE THE NIPLE, give it three or four slow pumps then try, its a job you can not rush Jumbery, just take your time & you WILL WIN.