Shopping & Style17 mins ago
Wallpapering.....
26 Answers
Ok the golden rule is leave any 'bubbles' and they'll flatten out overnight, what if they don't?
Also any joins that have lifted, what's the best way to get them to flatten now that the paste has dried and hardened the paper?
Also any joins that have lifted, what's the best way to get them to flatten now that the paste has dried and hardened the paper?
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The air has to go somewhere overnight. I've been known to leave ones that seem to refuse to flatten, before now, but generally try to leave it in good shape before it dries. I suspect it may be to do with the porosity of the wallpaper if the air can escape or not as the paper dries out.
Just use your brush to paste under the edges and stick them down. A syringe of paste may be useful to repaste under bubbles and wet the paper in order to push them down. If really bad you can only cut a slit, or make a rough edged tear, and hope when you push it down you can hide/disguise any overlap.
Just use your brush to paste under the edges and stick them down. A syringe of paste may be useful to repaste under bubbles and wet the paper in order to push them down. If really bad you can only cut a slit, or make a rough edged tear, and hope when you push it down you can hide/disguise any overlap.
Even with the best pasting, soaking and applying, wallpaper will stretch and distort then re-tighten as it dries out. This might be a lot or a little, depending on the weight and type of the wallpaper. Some go on like a charm - like the wallrock stuff - but recently I helped a friend with a fancy-pants designer paper and oh boy there were bubbles, all of which stretched out overnight.
The stores sell overlap adhesive in tubes, which is thick PVA glue, and this plus firm pressure is quite good for settling down wayward edges.
The stores sell overlap adhesive in tubes, which is thick PVA glue, and this plus firm pressure is quite good for settling down wayward edges.